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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kužel
(UIAA 6-)From the start of route No. 1 along the ledges in the NE face up to the ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Tulák
(UIAA 5+)Up the center of the narrow NW face to the ledge and right along the W edge n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Tulák
(UIAA 3)From the ledge in the valley face up the NE face n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Tulák
Southeast face n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Tulák
(UIAA 3)Up the center of the SW face to the small balcony on the right and up the face n… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 9) By the SE wall (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Bonbónek
Via the 'Sestupovka' route to 'Mrazík' on its pillar, step across to the small balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Bonbónek
From the wall (bolt) and directly via cracks (groove) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bonbónek
(UIAA 3) In the right part of the upper wall, via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bonbónek
(UIAA 5) From the ring to the left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bonbónek
(UIAA 5) Along the N edge to the ring and up the right wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bonbónek
Descend from E, by crack over the ring and by small crack to the ring of the Antiperle… Rock Climbing
5
Bonbónek
From the east by the wall (2 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bonbónek
(UIAA 4) From the plateau side traverse down to the S edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Bonbónek
(UIAA 6) Along the S edge to the hourglass, traverse left and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Křeček
(UIAA 2) From NW through the chimney to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bonbónek
In the left part of the SE face, up the wall to the ledge of the &South Edge& and… Rock Climbing
3
Trpaslík
(UIAA 3) From the E edge up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Trpaslík
(UIAA 2) Up the wall and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 3) From the gorge on the SW by the right crack. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 7) By stemming and right wall (ring) to the 1st ring of route no. 3. Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Pačmákovy věže
Immediately to the left of the W edge up the wall over 3 rings. Rock Climbing
6-
Jehně
(UIAA 6+) In the North wall via small ledges, the wall and through a hole to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Jehně
(UIAA 4) Description missing Rock Climbing
5
Ovečka
(UIAA 6+) Right part of the NE wall diagonally right to the edge and along it (ring) to… Rock Climbing
4+
Ovečka
Right of the east edge via the wall and left through a wide crack over an overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ovečka
(UIAA 7-) Right into the north edge via the wall (ring) to the north pillar and via the … Rock Climbing
3
Ovečka
(UIAA 3) In the left part of the NW wall via a chimney to the pillar. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ovečka
(UIAA 7) Right of the Chimney route via the wall, crack and small ledges to the ring, via… Rock Climbing
6-
Ovečka
Right of the Northwest Crack route via the wall (bolt hanger, 2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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