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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Křesadlo
From the SE (left of the pass) via a crack, groove (1st ring) and crack to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Pan Vajda
In the northern edge, via grooves and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pan Vajda
Up the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pan Vajda
From the NW, via a corner and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Křesadlo
In the valley (northern) wall, via a corner crack to a small pillar, up the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tchoř
To the right of the route 'Voňavá' (Fragrant), easily via a crack to a ledge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sója
Up the valley wall diagonally left to the edge. Normal Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tchoř
Up the plateau wall to a ledge and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kerstin
To the right of the route "Yugoslav Rhapsody", by aid climbing to the 1st ring and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Sója
Up the valley (NE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sója
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kerstin
From the NW, via a crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Then via the Emigration route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kerstin
From the SE, via a chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kerstin
To the left of the Emigration route via a crack and chimney to the pillar, then via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Klubová
Through a crack over an overhang (ring) in the NW wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Herka
Through the plateau crack to a ledge, then left behind the northern edge and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klubová
Up the SE wall and via a groove to the ring. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Konopáček
Along the left valley edge over 4 rings and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vlk
The start is on the bench below the SE face. Along the left edge and via chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8-/8
Vlk
From the north side via crack to the 1st ring, via crack along the edge (2nd ring), along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Grylon
From the east via crack to the ledge below the summit and wall (rappel station) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vlk
In the upper gorge to the right of the east corner via an S-shaped crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7/7+
Myslivec
Via the route 'Song of the lonely...' to the 2nd ring, wall (3rd ring) and wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vlček
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Myslivec
Step from the pillar into the wall (1st ring), along the small crack (2nd ring), wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Myslivec
From the upper gorge via chimney to the balcony and via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Myslivec
In the SE face via crack to the 1st ring, wall and small pillar (2nd ring), traverse wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Myslivec
In the valley (north) face by stepping from the pillar into the wall (ring), wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Růžička
In the valley face via crack into the hole (1st ring), traverse right onto the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Růžička
In the left part of the NE face via corner crack under the overhang. Wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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