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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Růžička
In the left part of the NE face via corner crack under the overhang. Wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mikuláš
From the old route to Růžička straight up via opposition (2 rings) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šípek
In the right part of the upper (NE) face via chimney to the platform. Traverse along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zapomenutá
From the small pillar on the valley (SE) side of the tower via chimney into the recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šípek
Rock Climbing
5+
Zapomenutá
NE crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via 'July Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zapomenutá
Left in the SW face via crack to the pillar of the Ant Route (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zapomenutá
At the north edge via chimney to the ring and wall to the pre-summit. Via 'July Route' to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zapomenutá
From NW via chimney and opposition to the ring, aid climbing and wall to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zapomenutá
From SW via a slanting chimney to the right onto a ledge to the ring. Aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradisko
To the left of route C. Just like that, a wide crack and chimney to the ring. Via crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Zapomenutá
From NW along the edge via 2 rings into the 'Ant' route and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hradisko
In the right part of the SW face (from Zapomenutá věž - Forgotten Tower) via crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradisko
In the middle of the SE face via crack, chimney, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradisko
Via Palisade to the extension, inside the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hradisko
In the NE face via the only crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Hradisko
In the left part of the SW face (from Zapomenutá věž - Forgotten Tower) via fissure,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hradisko
In the NE face via the chimney between the Palisade and Pracovní (Work) routes.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hradisko
NW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hradisko
Via the right NE chimney to the block. Along the N edge to the fore-summit and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hradisko
In the right part of the valley face via the chimney (1st ring), traverse left on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Hradisko
Center of the wall along the small ridges, via the corner and finally by slab climbing (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zlosyn
Up the wall along the southern edge to the 1st ring, left up the wall to the crack and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlosyn
Up the wall along the eastern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zlosyn
From the SE between Zlosyn and Hraniční Tower via a chimney to the terrace. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Zlosyn
In the valley face via a flake to the ledge (1st ring). Up the wall to the ledge, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zlosyn
Left of St. c. (Old Way) via a wide crack over the overhang, briefly by chimneying and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zlosyn
From the NE via the corner to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Zlosyn
By a jump from Hraniční into the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hraniční
Rock Climbing Textile belay

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