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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Jelčina
To the right of the Memorial Route via a crack (using the ring of the Memorial Route for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Štramberská trúba
From Jelčina via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jelčina
From the SE via the conical chimney to the ring. To the left via a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Prašná brána
Via the West ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jelčina
From the SW (from Královská třída) via a crack and higher up a chimney to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Jelčina
From Královská třída (Royal Class/Street) via a chimney-like ascent at the southern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Prašná brána
Via the East ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Herecká
To the right on the SE wall of the pillar via a crack and to the right by wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Herecká
From the gallery under the SE wall via the gully (ring) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bludička
Via the chimney of the Traverse Route below the widening. Traverse left and step over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Herecká
Through the chimney between Herecká Tower and Bludička, traverse, right wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bludička
From the western corner of the tower, traverse right along the slab and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Herecká
From Královská třída, via the chimney to the platform, via the chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Veverka
From the N from the fore-summit, along the left edge and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Bludička
Over the overhang to the ring, over the overhang via the knobs to the 2nd ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Bludička
Via the chimney to the flake, traverse the ledge to the right (1st ring) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Veverka
From the northern fore-summit, by building up to the ledge, along it to the right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Malý sokol
To the right on the NW side of the tower, by building up and via the crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý sokol
In the southern corner to the pillar, step over to the ring and build up to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý sokol
In the northern corner, via the crack to the ledge (here stands a slender Madonna) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Flaška
From the plateau (eastern) edge, traverse the ledge to the right (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Flaška
Along the plateau (eastern) edge and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malý sokol
From the NE, via the corner crack over the overhang to its end and traverse the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Madona
Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Madona
Via the eastern crack into the niche, left up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Madona
To the right of the NW crack, via the chimney to the pillar (ring). Step over and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ikona
From the SW via the chimney into the southern wall and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ikona
Via the right SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ikona
Via the left SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ikona
Via the right NW crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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