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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Mylord
Along the western edge to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mylord
To the right of the western edge, via the crack to the pillar and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mylord
Via the variant of 'Heavy Beginnings' to the pillar, traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Matýsek
Rock Climbing
3
Matýsek
Through the chimney between Vrátek and Matýsek to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Matýsek
Along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Matýsek
To the left of the northern edge, up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lodička
From the E via a tunnel to the W, up 2m via an internal chimney and via a crawling tunnel… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Lodička
Via the eastern face and left via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Drákulka
Rock Climbing
5
Lodička
Via the northern ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Lodička
Via the NE face to the small plateau and left via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Polní kurát
From the W via a crack for 2m and left over the edge to the boulder. Via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Polní kurát
Via the valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Pokladnice
From the NE, by crawling through the chimney to the plateau side and via the corner crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Polní kurát
Through internal chimneys between the tower and the massif to the pre-rock and via a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Pokladnice
In the right part of the SW face (between Pokladnice and Malá jehla) via a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pokladnice
From the NE via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Malá jehla
By jumping from Pokladnice (Treasure Chest) to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
Přeskok
Pokladnice
Brief descent from the eastern pre-summit of Malá jehla (Small Needle) and jump to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pokladnice
From the SE via the chimney to the ring, by building left into the groove and via it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pokladnice
Via the left NE ridge to the 1st ring and up the face (2nd and 3rd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Malá jehla
In the passage chimney on the NE side of the tower (between Malá jehla and Pokladnice)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Malá jehla
From Pokladnice (Treasure Chest) jump to the right terrace. Via the face over the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Malá jehla
Right of the northern corner from the wide crack to the fissure, then via it and a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Malá jehla
Via the left SW wide crack to the widening, by stepping over and up the face to the left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malá jehla
From the 2nd ring of the route 'Pots full of Roe Deer' to Járková by stepping over and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Malá jehla
In the right part of the NW face via a crack to the plateau, via the face to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malá jehla
From the NW via the middle crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Malá jehla
From the start of the "Right SW Crack" via an oblique crack to the 1st ring, then through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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