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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Malá jehla
From the start of the Hrobeso route to Járková by traversing right and via an overhang to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4
Malá jehla
Via the right SW wide crack to the pre-summit. Via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Malá jehla
From the start of the "Right SW Crack" via an oblique crack to the 1st ring, then through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Járková
Through the center of the SW wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Járková
Via the wall to the right of the Hrobeso route, over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Járková
Via the wall along the rounded southern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Járková
Right of the path, via the gully on the SW face along the western ridge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Járková
Via the NE chimney in opposition to 'Chrobáče' to the ring, from the left via the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Járková
Via the right SW edge (right below Hrobes) to the 1st ring. Via climbing and the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Járková
The ascent starts at the beginning of Královská třída on the lower side of the tower.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Járková
From the northeast, via the crack to the ring, from there a step into the chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Járková
From the NW, from the gorge, via the crack to the first balcony and through the chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Járková
From the gorge on the NW side of the tower, via the crack in the corner to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Járková
To the left of the 'Gully' route, directly via the wall (added ring) or left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Járková
Briefly along the edge to the ledge (1st ring), via the wall to the fore-summit, and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pyšná princezna
Rock Climbing
3
Pyšná princezna
Via the upper crack over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Járková
From the SW, from the fore-rock, through the chimney to the pillar, traverse and gully to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Sudička
Via the North wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Sudička
In the middle of the NW wall, via the crack to the pillar. Via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sudička
To the left on the NW side of the tower, a strenuous climb (ring), a crack, and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sudička
To the left of the Bílá křídla route, via a wide crack and chimney to the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sudička
In the right part of the NW wall, through a fissure and crack to the pillar to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sudička
From the SE, through the chimney to the blocks, traverse left and through another chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sudička
Rock Climbing
6-
Sudička
Through the chimney to the right of the Bílá křídla route to the fore-summit and a wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Kostka cukru
From the summit of Chrobáče Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6+/7-
Kostka cukru
From the SE, via the broken crack to the ring and then through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Kostka cukru
Between Kostka cukru and Sudička, from the block via opposition (ring), traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Kostka cukru
From the block on the lower side of the tower, via the gully (ring) into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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