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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Chrobáč
From the SE, via the short wall (sokolík) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Chrobáč
By jumping from Járková to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Chrobáč
By jumping from Sugar Cube to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Chrobáč
Through the SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chrobáč
By opposition against Járková, across the shelf to the pillar, onto the balcony and from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mezní branka
Along the western edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Mezní branka
Up the SE face and left along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Mezní branka
Up the center of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Mezní branka
Right part of the SE face along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Mezní branka
Along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Mezní branka
To the right of the Southeast Chimney route up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Mezní branka
Along the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Mezní branka
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Myška
Via the SE overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mezní branka
From the NE via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Čtyři gardisti
From the south via a beautiful chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
?
Čtyři gardisti
Through a narrow chimney in the left part of the SW face (not there) and a jump to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Čtyři gardisti
From the Border Gate (from SE) up the face right to the small crack, through it (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Čtyři gardisti
Start like Horology and then directly by crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čtyři gardisti
Like Cabin 218 under the roof, left and via the roof crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Čtyři gardisti
From the Chapel left up the face to the edge and to the 1st ring. Up the face left (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Čtyři gardisti
Opposite "Krakonošovo" (Giant's Wall) across the face via the hourglass and 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Čtyři gardisti
Left in the NE face via the chimney under the overhang, right along the face beyond the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čtyři gardisti
From Kolda's Chapel via the left crack, at the end by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8/8+
Čtyři gardisti
Left of "Musketeer" up the wall, 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Čtyři gardisti
Start like "Myladin Gully" and directly over 3 rings to the summit. (=from the passage… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Čtyři gardisti
In the middle of the NE face by the right crack under the roof and via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Čtyři gardisti
To the right of the traversable chimney, along the edge and up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čtyři gardisti
In the traversable chimney near the northern edge, by stemming and left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Čtyři gardisti
Right part of the NE face over the overhang and to the ring. Via the gully to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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