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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Cvrček
From the NE foothills via a crack to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Cvrček
From the slope on the SW side of the tower via a chimney and a crack to the pillar. Then… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Brucknerkvak
From NW, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Bob
Up the middle of the valley (NW) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bob
Along the left part of the valley (NW) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Bob
Along the right valley (western) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Otesánek
Along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Otesánek
Along the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brucknerkvak
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kašparidis
Along the valley edge to the 1st ring and left to the 2nd ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kašparidis
From the plateau side, through the chimney to the block, then by stepping over and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kašparidis
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Jubilejní
The ascent starts in the gorge at the eastern corner of the tower. Aid climbing, then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jubilejní
Along the western edge via 2 rings to the 'clock', traverse the wall left to the 3rd Q,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Jubilejní
Up the west face along the nodules to the 2nd ring. Left into the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jubilejní
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall via a crack to the balcony and left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Jubilejní
Via the 'Pre-Christmas' route to Nepojmenovaná Tower to the pillar. Jump to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Jubilejní
The ascent starts in the gorge between Jubilejní and Nepojmenovaná Tower. Aid climb over… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Upír
To the right of the Paraplátka route, ascend the wall and gully to the ring. Use a seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Upír
From NE, traverse the wall to the right to a gully and ascend it with a squeeze to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Trubač
Via opposing chimney to the pillar, by stepping over and via wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Upír
From the western foothills via a gully, then up the wall to the ring (using a seat) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Upír
From NW via a small dihedral and a wall (2 rings) into a gully, then up to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Trubač
Via east ridge over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Nepojmenovaná
In the left part of the NE wall via chimney to the balcony and via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Nepojmenovaná
To the left of the route "Almost Invalid" via wall along the south ridge 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Nepojmenovaná
Via south wall over 2 rings to the fore-summit, Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Nepojmenovaná
In the right part of the NE wall via dihedral, crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Nepojmenovaná
From the NW from the right via chimney to the pillar. Right via wall to the hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Nepojmenovaná
Old Route three meters and left traverse to the ledge to the 1st ring. Left via gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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