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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Střílna
Via the Southwest Chimney route for three meters, along the ledge left behind the west… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Střílna
From NE via the right narrow chimney to the small platform, via the gully and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Střelci
From the upper terrace, traverse to the ledge and along it right to the crack. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Střelci
Via the East Crack route to the ledge. Along the edge (ring) and left via the gully to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7
Střelci
Via the chimney from NE through the constriction (ring) and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Střelci
To the right of the summit chimney of the Old Route via the gully, higher up via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Střelci
The ascent is identical to the Komín route to Střílna. In the corner, traverse to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Střelci
Left in the NE wall via the chimney (ring) to the end, traverse right (overhanging flake)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Kapesní prcátko
From the valley side via the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ostrostřelec
SW crack and chimney under the overhang and left via a small ridge to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kapesní prcátko
Via the chimney between the tower and Anton Špelec to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostrostřelec
From the upper terrace, descend in the chimney and right between the edges of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrostřelec
From the summit of Střelci by descending, by a climbing partner into a split (this is a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brixík
Via the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Irena
From SW via the chimney to the ledge (1st ring), by building to the right of the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Badera
Via the upper wall (ring) and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Přemysl Otakar II.
The start is on the valley (SW) side of the tower to the right of the west edge. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Alchymista
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Alchymista
On the plateau side by stemming, significant building, and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Alchymista
Left of the Elixir of Life route via a slanting crack into the gap between towers. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Irena
From the plateau's fore-rock left to the pillar. By building and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Štolba
In the right part of the SW wall from the step-over via a small crack and wall (1st Q)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štolba
From SW via the chimney to the valley terrace. By stepping over, through a crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Štolba
From NE up the wall to the right (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Princátko
From SE from the edge feature by jumping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Štolba
From the end of the "ladder" left along the ramp to the 1st Q. Left over the step, small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Štolba
Via the plateau (southern) ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Princátko
SE wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Princátko
NE chimney to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Princátko
Between Princátko and the edge feature by stemming, stepping over, and via a gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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