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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Princátko
From SW over small pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pumprdlík
Left of the East Ridge route, via small cracks to the ledge, traverse left to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pumprdlík
Like the East Ridge to the small pillar and left along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Pumprdlík
From NE via a crack to the small pillar and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Pumprdlík
From SW via a crack to the 1st ring and left up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Místokrálík
With a small wall along the cracks, right to the W edge and along it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Místokrálík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Místokrálík
Rock Climbing
3
Pumprdlík
Via the little pillar from SW and the route "V edge" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Místokrálík
Rock Climbing
5
Místokrálík
Rock Climbing
6-
Král
From the start of the Old Route, up the wall to the right and via the crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Král
The start is to the right of the Old Route chimney. From the block on the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8+/9-
Král
From the valley side and valley face via 9 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Král
From SW, from the gorge via chimney to the lower pillar. Up the wall (ring) to the higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Král
From the valley terrace of Bratranecká Tower by a jump into the window below the lowest… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Král
In the left part of the valley wall via a chimney, in places a crack below the lowest… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Král
On the outer side of the Old Route chimney to the 1st (added) ring. By wall left beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Král
Via the Coronation route to the 2nd ring and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Král
From the plateau terrace left by descent to the ledge, in it traverse beyond the western… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Král
From the plateau terrace via a crack to the balcony and by wall to the 1st ring. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Král
Rock Climbing
6-
Král
In the middle of the north face via a crack (higher up a corner crack) into the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Král
From the plateau terrace by stepping over into the chimney and through it (ring) below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Princ
From the valley side via a broken crack (2 rings) left to the balcony to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Sluha
Along the plateau edge and wall to the left along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Sluha
From Král via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Princ
To the right of the South Gully route via a system of cracks to the pre-summit. In the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Princ
From the valley side via a gully/corner to the hole and by crack (ring) to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Princ
From the small pillar on the south side via an overhang and edge (ring) to the ledge. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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