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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Princ
From the plateau side via the left falcon-like gully/corner to the pre-summit. By wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Princ
Along the valley edge via cracks (1st ring) higher up the wall to the right (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kojná
From the plateau directly over the ring and along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kojná
From the SW via a crack to the balcony and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Kojná
From the plateau fore-summit via the wall to a ledge and traverse left beyond the edge to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Princezny
From the plateau side via the right crack to the inner pillars. By wide crack/divergence… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Princezny
From the valley side via a crack and chimney to the inner pillars. By wide crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Princezny
From the plateau side via the left crack and chimney to the inner pillars. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Princezny
To the right of the Valley route via a system of shallow cracks (ring) to the inner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Loskoták jeskynní
Via the SE chimney to the ledge, by crack and wall to the pre-summit. Via the Tax Evasion… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Loskoták jeskynní
Along the right valley edge via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Komorná
Via the "Valley" route to Princezny into the wide crack/discord (ring), with aid and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Loskoták jeskynní
From the valley side by chimney to the ledge, corner double crack to the false summit and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6
Loskoták jeskynní
From SW by corner crack to the ledge and via the 'Tax Evasion' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Loskoták jeskynní
From the upper side over steps to the ledge. To the right by small crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Vosa
In the middle of the SE wall by curved crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Vosa
At the eastern edge by wall to the ledge, along it to the right and by crack (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Vosa
From the valley terrace of Bratranecká Tower by leap to the pillar. Via 'From the Gorge'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Vosa
To the left of the E edge by wall slightly right to the gully (ring), through it and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Jaruška
From the upper side by stemming and step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vosa
To the left of the 'From the Gorge' route by chimney to the ring and by crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vosa
In the left part of the SE wall by narrow chimney to the pillar. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vosa
Passage in the chimney of the 'From the Gorge' route and inside the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jaruška
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Jaruška
On the valley NE side by crack (ring) to the block. Left behind the edge to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Jaruška
From SW by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bratranecká
To the right of Klikatka onto the flake (1st ring), along the ridge to the eastern edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bratranecká
By crack (behind Jaruška tower) to the 1st ring. To the right along the crack-like rib to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Bratranecká
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall by corner crack and chimney to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Bratranecká
From the valley terrace in the left part of the wall by short walls to the flake and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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