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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Urologická zahrada
From the W, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Urologická zahrada
From the fore-rock of Mechová, by jumping n.v. (Note: 'n.v.' likely refers to 'na vrchol'… Rock Climbing
5
Mechová
From the SE, from the fore-rock, traverse left along the ledge past the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mechová
Via the West Wall route to the ring. Traverse left along the wall to the 2nd ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čarodějná hůlka
Via the Magic Route to the Witch (Čarodějka) onto the pillar. With extensive aid (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Čarodějka
Along the right part of the NE wall and crack to the ring. Through the crack and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Čarodějka
From the NW, via the chimney and crack to the pillar. Step right into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Královna
In the middle of the NE face via a rib and crack to the ledge, left by transitioning into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Královna
Via the route "Studnička's Legacy" to the 4th ring (aid climbing only to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Královna
Along the west edge 6 rings into a gully, through it to the ledge (7th ring), through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Královna
In the upper face (ring) via a crack and up the face, traverse left to the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Královna
From the block on the upper fore-rock with extensive aid to the 1st ring. With aid from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Černý cikán
Up the upper face and with aid to the ring. With aid from the harness and up the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Šašek
From the valley side (from the NE) via a wide crack or a crack to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šašek
Left of the upper chimney via a corner (1st ring) and a crack to the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Šašek
Via the route of the government jesters to the 2nd ring and directly along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
NW crack to the ring. With aid from the harness, left via a gully to the ledge, along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
From the SW via a pillar (sokolík - a small, distinct pillar-like feature, often used for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
Between Šašek and Cimbuří via the upper chimney to the balconies. Up the face into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Cimbuří
From the cave in the valley NE face (left of the Zvonová cesta) via a chimney under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Cimbuří
From the NE via a corner crack (1st ring) to the balcony, over the drop (2nd ring) with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Cimbuří
From the valley side (right of the cave) via a chimney and crack to the ring. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Cimbuří
The access is from the NW, left of the pillar. With aid and via a crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Cimbuří
In the right part of the valley face via a wide crack over several small platforms to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Cimbuří
From the NW, from the right, via a chimney and crack to the pillar. Via crack and chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Cimbuří
In the middle of the upper face via the right crack to a small platform to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cimbuří
Along the Unknown Route for two meters, up the face to the right, via a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Cimbuří
From the upper corner between Cimbuří and Šašek, over the small platform to the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5
Cimbuří
Via the Bratranecká route to Šašek to the balconies. Right over the steps to the platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Slaninova
To the right of the south corner by a crack to the ring, with aid from the harness and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4

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