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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Audienční
Rock Climbing
6
Audienční
In the right part of the NW wall via a crack to the pillar. Traverse and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Audienční
From the upper side to the fore-rock of Zámek via an overhang (1st ring), wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Audienční
Rock Climbing
5
Audienční
Rock Climbing
8-
Audienční
From the gorge near Zámek, from the small pillar (old take-out) via a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Komtesa
From the highest point of the terrain, traverse the wall along the eastern edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Komtesa
From the chimney between Komtesa and Zámek (Castle) up the wall directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Komtesa
From the eastern edge, traverse the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Komtesa
At the western corner, through the chimney to the block. Traverse and wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mraveniště
From NW via a crack to a small pillar. Right up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Komtesa
From the fore-rock between Komtesa and Audienční věž (Audience Tower) via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mraveniště
Below the abseil (in the right part of the NE wall) via a crack to the end (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Mraveniště
In the SW wall, up the slabby wall (ring) and via a gully to the sub-summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Bratislavská
In the left part of the valley (SW) wall, traverse right under the overhang to a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Mraveniště
From SE from the block, by building up and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Bratislavská
The start is on the uphill side of the tower. Via a crack in the valley wall of Termit to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
King-Kong
Up the uphill chimney to the ring, by stemming and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
King-Kong
Up the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Bratislavská
Up the uphill wall to a small platform, via the dihedral (sokolík) crack and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Bratislavská
From the uphill side via an overhang to the 1st ring. Traverse left on the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Turgen
Via a small crack (sling) to the end to the ring, up the wall directly, later diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Turgen
From below along the uphill edge, higher as route. Over a small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Turgen
Up the wall along the eastern edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Turgen
From the uphill side via a dihedral (sokolík) to a small pillar and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Turgen
Up the uphill wall to a small pillar and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Zámek
From the gorge on the SE side of the tower (access from Turgen) from the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Turgen
Via a crack over a ring directly and right along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zámek
From the inner space (from SE) via the chimney or right via a crack (from the uphill side… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zámek
From the hole, traverse left on the wall and a small gully to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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