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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Zámek
Via the East route to the ledge and along it left to the hole. By building up, left wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Zámek
Via friction slab over two rings to the blocks. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Zámek
5m left of the start of "Direct Variation of the Vault" via wall, short crack and gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
The start is below the right part of the valley wall. Via crack and chimney to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
In the left part of the valley wall, via a crack in the corner to its end. Traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
10m left from the start of the "Direct Arch Variant" via a crack to the end to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
Rock Climbing
6
Zámek
To the right of Beo's route via wall to the ring and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zámek
From the upper fore-rock via wall left to the small falcon's crack and along it to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Zámek
From the SE via a narrow long chimney to the fore-summit. Around the large clock traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Šmytec
Left of the E edge via wall to the balcony, by the east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zámek
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Šmytec
Via the 'Sokolík' (small falcon) in the west face to the ring, then by wall and edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zámek
Between the routes "Castle Vault" and "Enchanted Beauty" via crack and wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šmytec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ovečka
From the SE via crack to the fore-summit and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Ovečka
By crack or stemming to the small pillar (ring). Above it from the left via crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ovečka
By the valley chimney to the pillar, by overhang and crack to the fore-summit. By the Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Ztracenec
The start is between Ztracenec and Cibulová věž (Onion Tower). Via chimney (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovečka
To the right of "Old c." via a small wall to the ring. To the right along the edge and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ovečka
By the valley chimney and crack to the balcony (ring). By Saxon climbing technique and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mrdloň
Through the center of the E wall along a small crack (ring) n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Mrdloň
By the valley edge (ring) n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Mrdloň
By the crack at the SE edge and by that n.v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
4
Mrdloň
By the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Mrdloň
By the North wall to the right along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Cibulová věž
From the massif in the right part of the upper wall by sustained climbing and overhang to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mrdloň
By the upper wall n.v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Cibulová věž
At the east edge via crack over an overhang to the 1st ring. Traverse right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cibulová věž
At the west edge via chimney and stemming to the ring. From the belay, left via crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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