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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Cibulová věž
From the east edge in the ledge to the right and via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
3
Cibulová věž
Left from the upper side by an overhang to the ring of the Thirsty Path. Left by building… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Cibulová věž
In the upper gorge, left by stemming to the ring and right by a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Cibulová věž
Via the UPPER CHIMNEY CRACK directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Cibulová věž
Right from the upper gorge, via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Česnek
Via the chimney in the corner next to Česnečka to the balcony and like Česnečka to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Česnek
Via the left upper chimney to the pillar. Via the Pikouska route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Česnek
Via the right upper corner crack to the balcony. Via the Česnečka route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Cibulová věž
The start is at the southern corner of the tower (between Cibulová Tower and the edge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Česnek
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, via a crack to the pillar and aided move to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Česnek
Via the left valley crack to the balcony and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Klekánice
From SE, via the chimney to the pillar and right along the edge to a small balcony. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Klekánice
From the valley, via the corner (1st ring) and right via the sloping wall (2nd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klekánice
Via the NW chimney to the pillar. Aided move and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Klekánice
Via the western edge (ring), via the wall to the pillar and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klekánice
From NW, via fissures to the 1st ring, via the wall (2nd ring) to the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rebel
From the upper side, via the wall right behind the edge and up to the 1st ring. Aided… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Saská hlava
Along the right valley edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring, via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Saská hlava
The start is to the left of the Entrance Variant of the Old Route. Via the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Saská hlava
In the left part of the valley wall, via the chimney to a block and aided move to an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Saská hlava
From the upper fore-rock, via an overflow and small crack to a ring, aided move from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Saská hlava
Through the upper corner chimney to the 1st ring (visible from the W. edge of the cap),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Saská hlava
From the upper side, via the chimney or corner crack to the pillar. Via a crack into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Saská hlava
The start is below the center of the NW wall. Via a crack to a ledge, in it left, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saská hlava
In the middle of the valley wall, via a crack and chimney to an overgrown balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Martinská koruna
Via the right valley route to the balcony, left through a system of cracks (ring) and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Saská hlava
From SE, via a corner broken crack to an overgrown balcony. From its right edge, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Martinská koruna
From NW, diagonally left on the wall to the valley pillar. Via the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Martinská koruna
From NW by crack to the lower summit and traverse by stemming to the inner pillar. Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Martinská koruna
From the left valley (eastern) corner, via the chimney to the balcony. Traverse under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3

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