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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Filuta
From the highland side, via stemming and up the wall to the right to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Desková
Via the highland crack (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Desková
Via the left valley (eastern) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Panský kočí
From the valley side, via a small chimney and up the wall to the right past the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Desková
In the NE wall, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Desková
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Desková
In the corner at the northern edge, via a crack to the 1st ring. Through the chimney, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Desková
Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Král komiků
From the highland side, via aid climbing, up the wall and through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Desková
In the left part of the highland wall, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Král komiků
Up the NW wall diagonally left to the edge, via a small crack and gully to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Orel
To the right of the west edge, via a crack to the balcony and then via a crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Orel
From the NW, via a crack, widening into a chimney, to the pre-summit. Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7+/8-
Orel
From the block on the highland side, via an overhang and the left highland edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
To the right of the South Edge, traverse left to the southern edge and follow the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Orel
From the highland massif, step over and up the wall into the window. Follow the "Slippery… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Orel
3m to the right of the start of the "Slippery Gully" route, via a crack to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
To the left of the Southeast Route, up the wall and via a diagonal gully to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Orel
From the highland side, via a crack over the overhang to the balcony. To the right,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orel
Southeast chimney, crack, and chimney to the pre-summit. Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Orel
From the valley side through the inner part of a narrow chimney to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Orel
From the valley side, to the left of the "Old Route", traverse over to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Koko
Left of the start of the route 'Nešikovný ruce' (Clumsy Hands) via a corner, traverse on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Koko
At the left plateau edge via a crack and left along the wall next to the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Koko
To the right of the route "Vhloubení" (Indentation) via the edge and wall (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Koko
From SE via the chimney to the pre-summit, then a traverse/jump and wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Koko
In the right part of the NE face via a broken crack to the 1st ring. Wall, left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Koko
From NW (from the alcove) via a double crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Via the route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Séraky - SZ věž
From the left valley corner via a crack and chimney to the saddle. Via the 'Rozeklanou' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Séraky - SZ věž
From the plateau fore-rock via the chimney to the saddle and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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