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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Koko
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Séraky - JV věž
From the fore-rock via the wall diagonally right and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Séraky - JV věž
From SW from the fore-rock via the wall to the edge and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Séraky - JV věž
Valley crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Crack to the ledge and via the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Séraky - JV věž
At the southern edge via the wall, crack, and small chimneys to the ledge. To the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Séraky - JV věž
Southern face from the right to the ring, then left and with the edge over the second… Rock Climbing
5
Žlábková
In the right part of the valley face via a small crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žlábková
In the left part of the valley face via a crack to the ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Žlábková
Through the inner chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Žlábková
Along the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žlábková
To the right of Vodní cesta (Water Route) via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Žlábková
From the plateau side via a small chimney/alcove and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pralina
Through the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pralina
Through the plateau chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Vztyčená věž
SW edge and face over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pralina
NW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Vztyčená věž
In the south face by crack or face and further over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Vztyčená věž
Above the second hook from Bioflora up the face left to the 2nd ring of Neo System and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Vztyčená věž
Center of the SW face over 2 bolts and left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Vztyčená věž
SW face along the crack to the pine tree and a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Vztyčená věž
Middle of the NE face into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Vztyčená věž
Up the face along the east edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9
Vztyčená věž
From the added ring of the Way to Better Tomorrows up the face to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vztyčená věž
In the right part of the east face to the bolt, slightly down and to the edge. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Vztyčená věž
Right part of the NE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Vztyčená věž
At the north corner up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Vztyčená věž
Right of the Way to Better Tomorrows up the face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Vztyčená věž
Up the NW face and by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Weikiki
Up the north edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Weikiki
Middle of the valley face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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