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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Chuďas
Freely climbed direct variant of the "Silikóza" route - directly up the corner (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Chuďas
Via the SW chimney to the balcony and then the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Chuďas
From the NW, from the discord by block building to the ring. By building from the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Bohatýr
From the upper gorge, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Bohatýr
Up the wall along the valley's northern edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bohatýr
To the right of the Chimney route, via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5+
Bohatýr
To the left of the route "Dešťovka", up the wall to the ring and left into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bohatýr
From the left part of the eastern foreshore, up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
10
Bohatýr
From the dispute, via the northeast ridge over three rings to the summit… The third ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bohatýr
From the east fore-summit up the wall to the ring and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Mývalovec kuní
Directly up the left edge via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Bohatýr
In the left part of the valley wall directly up the wall via 2 rings, to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Bohatýr
From the NE, through the middle of the valley wall (2 rings) to the eastern foreshore. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Čarodějnice adršpašská
From the right valley wall via an angled crack to the ring, an overhang/steep section… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9
Mývalovec kuní
Up the west edge and over the ring into the chimney/wide crack and again the edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mývalovec kuní
Up the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čarodějnice adršpašská
Up the left valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Čarodějnice adršpašská
Up the valley crack to the ring, then via a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8+/9-
Čarodějnice adršpašská
On the valley wall from the left to the 1st ring near the edge and along the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Kobylí hlava
From the fore-summit on the valley wall by using aid and a small rock feature to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Kobylí hlava
Left on the valley wall via a small crack to a vegetated balcony and along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Škatulka
From S via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kobylí hlava
By stemming/bridging against the fore-summit and up the wall along the west edge (3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čaroděj
Up the valley wall (ring), higher up left through a hole/passage to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čaroděj
To the right of the Mossy Staircase route via a corner crack and a chimney right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Čaroděj
Up the overhanging edge (bolt and 4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čaroděj
From the west edge along a slanted ledge left and via cracks to the ring. By using aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dobroděj
From the SW via a short green wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čaroděj
To the right in the valley (NW) wall via a corner (ring) to the fore-summit. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Čaroděj
Rock Climbing

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