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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Věž Lucie Rakoncajové
From NE with substantial build-up and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
4
Karkulka
To the right from the upper side via a crack to a ledge and over another ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Karkulka
From S to the saddle between Karkulka and Lucie Rakoncajová's Tower and along the eastern… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Don Carlos
From the upper area Chachoňky up the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mafián
Up the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Don Carlos
From the upper area Chachoňky to the right onto the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chachoňka
Through the right part of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Chachoňka
From the SE from a block by a jump/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chachoňka
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Don Carlos
From the massif by a jump/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cínový vojáček
Via a chimney or crack to the pillar on the east side. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cínový vojáček
Via a small chimney from the upper side to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Chachoňka
From the NW, up the wall over the ramp (ring) left into a curved crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Cínový vojáček
From the block on the valley side by aid climbing/building and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krecbachov
From the valley (NE) side via a small crack/chimney (sokolík) (1st ring) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Gejši
The ascent is in the gorge between Gejši and Misantrop. Via a crack and to the right a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krecbachov
Between Krecbachov and Gejši, up the chimney to the ledge and to the left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
9
Misantrop
From the west via a crack and gully over two rings to the pillar, then by the normal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Gejši
Up the SE wall to the 1st ring and diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Misantrop
From the gorge from Migdalka, up the wall to the pillar (1st ring). By aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Gejši
From the gorge between Gejši and Misantrop, via a small chimney to the balcony. Up an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Misantrop
In the right part of the upper gorge, by straddling off a block and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Misantrop
From the upper gorge via a conical chimney to the pillar. By aid climbing/building and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Misantrop
From Gejša, a descent, an overhang/traverse, and a slab wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Misantrop
Through the right part of the valley (NW) wall and cracks under the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hotel Eldorado
Ascent in the NW wall by straddling to the balcony and a crack to the pre-summit, then to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hotel Eldorado
Ascent via the North edge with a small crack/chimney (sokolík) to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hotel Eldorado
Via the right crack and chimney from "Alibaba" to the pillar and a crack-chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hotel Eldorado
Rappel from the edge onto the mossy plateau, through the chimney near the edge to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hotel Eldorado
Through the chimney from "Alibaba", a double crack to the pre-summit and a slab wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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