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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Vraní věže
Up the SE edge (from Ant Mountain) over 5 rings to the balcony. Along the right edge over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Vraní věže
Up the left valley edge (5 rings) to the balcony and via the "Conspiracy..." route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vraní věže
From the fore-cliff below the left part of the valley wall of the higher tower, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Vraní věže
From E, to the right of Raven Alley, via an overhead crack (1st ring), higher up a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Vraní věže
To the right of the "Completed Crack" route, via a crack (1st ring) to the end. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Vraní věže
Start via the Borůvka variant (2 rings), higher up a fragile wall (on holds the thickness… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Vraní věže
In the valley wall, via a small crack to the 1st ring, then up the wall (2 rings) into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Vraní věže
To the left of the "Conspiracy of Dunces" route, up the wall (2 rings) to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vraní věže
From Raven Alley, up the chimney along its NW edge to the ring. To the left via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Hliněný vršek
From the terrace at the end of Hasse's Crack/Yellow Crack in the NE wall, up the chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Vraní věže
From Raven Alley, up the chimney to the lower tower. By building to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8-/8
Hliněný vršek
From the passage between the Raven Towers and Ant Mountain, behind the block, traverse a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Mravenčí hora
From SW, ascend the corner crack to the pillar. Continue via the Ant's Route to the false… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Mravenčí hora
In the right part of the valley wall (in the corner) via an overhanging slab, a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Mravenčí hora
From the NW corner, traverse into the double crack and to the right through a narrow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Mravenčí hora
In the middle of the valley wall, via a crack (3 rings) and a chimney to the false summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Mravenčí hora
From the center of Přísečná Alley, chimneys lead to the platform on the valley side. In… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Mravenčí hora
Via a crack (left of the "Yellow Crack" route) into a small cave. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Mravenčí hora
From the corridor near Kokšova Tower, chimneys between Slánka and Dráp lead to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mravenčí hora
Between the routes "Yellow Crack" and "Hasse's Crack", follow a fissure to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Přísaha
Up the SE crack (1st ring) to the end, up the wall to the 2nd ring (building from a seat)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Mravenčí hora
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall, a crack (ring) leads into a small cave. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Přísaha
From the balcony, traverse the overhanging crack directly to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Přísaha
Via the route From the Oath to Mravenčí hora to the detached block. By overhang, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Přísaha
From the valley via the pyrites wall (2 rings) to the pillar, further along the edge (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Přísaha
From Přísežná ulička via a chimney to the 1st ring and a chimney diagonally right beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Přísaha
From SE (from Rohová) via a crack to the balcony, through the window to the right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
10
Král trpaslíků
Via the East edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Král trpaslíků
Via the South edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Král trpaslíků
Via the North edge over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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