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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Král trpaslíků
Along the west edge via the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kozlíci z Roháčku
By opposition between the towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kozlíci z Roháčku
Left from the valley side via a crack to the balcony and left via the wall to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kozlíci z Roháčku
From NW via a crack to the pillar, left via the wall and small crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Kozlíci z Roháčku
From the Tower of Friendship descent to the pine tree, overhang and aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž přátelství
From the plateau via a crack to the ledge of the Mossy Path and by that (=right wall) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Věž přátelství
Jump from Kozlíky and further up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kozlíci z Roháčku
In the left part of the plateau wall via a small crack and wall to the pine tree. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž přátelství
Through the center of the NE wall (5 rings). (Aid climbing) and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Teta skalní
From the valley via the wall along the N edge (1st ring), by crack to the 2nd ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5+
Věž přátelství
Via the East edge to the 1st ring, aid climbing and edge (2nd ring) to the 3rd ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Věž přátelství
In the left part of the plateau (NW) wall via chimney to the ledge and right via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Teta skalní
In the plateau via the left crack to the platform and by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Rohová
Via the Zigzag path to the platform. At the right edge by aid climbing and wall right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rohová
At the west edge by aid climbing, wall (1st ring) to the ledge and along it right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rohová
SE crack, in the notch left to the crack, then to the balcony to the ring (aid climbing)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Slánka
From the Hall via internal chimneys to the ledge and by a crack to the pre-summit. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rohová
Via the plateau crack to the platform. By a crack (broken higher up) to the ring. By aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Slánka
On the SE side of the tower (left of Přísežná ulička) by a crack, fissure and crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Slánka
From Dráp by a jump to the tree, by traverse, another jump and Křehká to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dráp
From the 3rd ring right through a crack to the balcony. Wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Slánka
From the corridor between Kokšova Tower and Dráp, at the south corner of Slánka (in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dráp
From the Hall (from SW) through a crack and a chimney to the platform. Descend the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Archa
From the NE corridor through the chimney to the opposite blocks. Descend the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Dráp
In the chimney on the uphill side of the tower in opposition (4 rings) and left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dráp
Via the Enchanted Wall route to Kokšova to the 1st ring. In opposition (by climbing) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Archa
From NW through the passage and crawl in the chimney into the inner space of the tower.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Archa
From SW (left of the corridor) through a crack over an overhang to the balcony, through… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Archa
In the left part of the SW wall through a variously wide crack over overhangs to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Archa
Start in the N hall through a crack under an overhang to the ring. Left over the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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