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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hotel Eldorado
Through the chimney from "Alibaba", a double crack to the pre-summit and a slab wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hotel Eldorado
From the route "Předsudetská klasika" (Pre-Sudeten Classic), by traversing under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Migdalka
To the right of "Jazzová variace" (Jazz Variation), through a crack over an overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Cíťa
From the west, through a gully into the gap between towers and through a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Cíťa
From the east, through a crack and chimney to the pillar. Up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Cíťa
On the valley side from the ramp, through a crack to a small balcony to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Migdalka
From the uphill side, by aid climbing and a small rock pinnacle to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dagovy uši
To the left of the route "Učednická spára" (Apprentice's Crack), up the wall (ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6+/7-
Migdalka
Through the crack (right of the start of Tomáš Baťa's Route), past the 1st ring of CTB,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dagovy uši
Uphill crack (ring) and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
4
Dagovy uši
From the valley pre-peak, through the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Brutopýr
Rock Climbing
5+
Dagovy uši
Through the chimney between Dag's Ears and the Ark to the pillar. Descend and over a drop… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Krkavec
From the north, through the corner crack to the pillar. Traverse right in the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krkavec
SE chimney and opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brutopýr
Rock Climbing
4
Krkavec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Vraní oko
Follow the route "Kroky Františka Janečka" to the 1st ring. Directly up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Vraní oko
To the right of the Old Route, along the edge over the 1st ring into the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
10-/10
Vraní oko
Through the middle of the SW wall over Bh directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Vraní oko
Right edge over 4 rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vraní oko
From the SW uphill wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Vraní oko
Up the wall along the eastern edge to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Vraní oko
Between Raven's Eye and Raven's Towers, through the chimney to the pre-summit. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Vraní oko
Through the chimney of the Descent Route to the ledge and traverse right in it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Vraní věže
From the uphill side, through a crack (3 rings) and a wall near the edge, 4th and 5th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Vraní věže
From the 1st ring of the route "Smrtonoška lahodná" directly along the edge to the 3rd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Vraní věže
Follow the path "Velká Pardubická" to the ring. Up the wall to the right to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Vraní věže
To the right of the highest point of the plateau wall, briefly into the left corner of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Vraní věže
Up the left NE crack through a small cave to the pillar. With extensive building and up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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