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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Bratranecká
In the left part of the valley terrace by crack and to the right by wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bratranecká
From the terrace from Král (in the right part of the NW wall) by crack, which turns left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bratranecká
From the valley terrace in the right part of the wall by crack to the platform. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bratranecká
To the right of the western edge (from the outer path) by step-over and wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bratranecká
Rock Climbing
2
Bratranecká
From the upper gorge via chimney to the plateau between Bratranecká Tower and Hurajda. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bratranecká
In the middle of the upper wall in the gorge by crack (ring) to the end. With aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bratranecká
Rock Climbing
6-
Hurajda
From the SE, via opposition (stemming) and climbing (building holds) to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +4
5+
Hurajda
Via 'Diphtheria' to the 1st ring. To the right by wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Hurajda
Via the Traverse Route to the plateau. Step over the chimney and to the right up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Hurajda
Traverse path to the plateau. Center of the wall to the ring and left by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Lolitka
Up the SE laid-back edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Hurajda
On the valley NE side, via a 2m chimney, left along the small cracks (1st ring). Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
4
Hurajda
Via the Old Route to Bratranecká Tower to the plateau. At the left edge, via the overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Hurajda
From the traverse of route "Traverse Wall" to the left (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Komrda
From the gorge, along the east edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Komrda
Along the south edge to the top of the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Komrda
Up the plateau chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Houslařská
From the W, via the chimney, overhang to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Houslařská
Up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Houslařská
From the SW, traverse the wall diagonally left to the west edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Mechová
Up the valley wall of Babské ucho (ring) to its summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mechová
Along the edge from Urologická zahrádka over the quartz veins to the ring and left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Mechová
In the left part of the valley wall, via a wide section into the wall to the ring, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mechová
From route "Hammer..." left via the crack (ring) and right to the summit of Babské ucho. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
9+
Mechová
From the stone to the right in the valley wall (carved star) directly over three rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Mechová
From the ring, climbing (building holds) and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Mechová
Up the NW wall to the ring. Climbing (building holds) and to the right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Mechová
To the right of the west edge, by building/stacking and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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