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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Klárka
From the valley's eastern edge to the ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klárka
From the north side, traverse left to the pillar, along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Klárka
Through the NW chimney, then traverse and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kaplička skalní
Through the valley corner and crack (ring), higher up through the chimney and NC to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Klárka
Cleverly up the plateau wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kaplička skalní
From the NE crack to the pillar, up the wall along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kaplička skalní
From the NW via a chimney to the pillar and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kaplička skalní
From the plateau side over a block via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Johny
We ride our bike up the crack to the ring and from there boulder into the forest for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Herecká
A short crack, then up the wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Herecká
Rock Climbing
6-
Grc
From the valley via the right crack and a step left into the crack, following it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Herecká
Along the sharp edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Doga
From the plateau side via a corner to a block, to the right by stepping over and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Faustův sluha
From the E via a gully and wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Doga
From the east, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Doga
Via a crack from the NW (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Doga
From the valley side, via a chimney to a ledge, a conical wide crack into an expansion… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sup
UIAA cl. 3In the SW wall, the first crack from the left to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Sup
UIAA cl. 2From the back side via the wall and along the pillars to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Sup
UIAA cl. 5+By a crack in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sup
UIAA cl. 3Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Labuť
UIAA cl. 5+Via route no. 3 to the Slovak Sign into the interior space. Through a chimney… Rock Climbing
7
Kulička
From NW via an overhanging crack to the detached block and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kulička
SW wall diagonally right to the edge and over the "corner" to the detached block. Power… Rock Climbing
2
Kulička
NW wall to the right to a balcony on the west edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pavlač
Cl. UIAA 4Right SW crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Pavlač
Cl. UIAA 6+From the ledge, left crack in the NE wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Pavlač
Cl. UIAA 2From the ledge below the summit structure, left crack in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Pavlač
Cl. UIAA 5+From the ring, down the wall to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing

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