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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+
Homole
UIAA Class 6+. From the tourist path under the overhang via crack (bolt) to a small… Rock Climbing
7
Klečící mnich
UIAA Class 7. Via overhanging arête in the middle of the valley wall to the end (bolt).… Rock Climbing
10
Homole
Via route "Old Accounts" to the 1st bolt. Directly up the wall and along the edge (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Pes
UIAA Class 3. From the NE via a system of cracks and chimneys to the sub-summit blocks.… Rock Climbing
6
Homole
UIAA Class 6. Left from route No. 1 via crack to the platform. Wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pes
UIAA Class 5. Via crack in the SW wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Pes
UIAA Class 7. Right from the W edge via crack over the overhang to the bolt. Down the… Rock Climbing
5+
Štěně
UIAA Class 5+. Route No. 2 to Psa (Dog) to the inner small platform. Step over left to… Rock Climbing
4
Pes
UIAA Class 4. Via chimney between Štěně (Puppy) and Kanec (Boar) and in it to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Štěně
UIAA Class 5+. Via crack in the E wall (bolt) into the inner space to a small platform.… Rock Climbing
7
Pes
UIAA Class 7. From the Amphitheater in the NW wall via the left crack and in it by aid… Rock Climbing
8-
Kanec
UIAA Class 8-. From the NW via a 5m crack, traverse right along the wall to the small… Rock Climbing
5
Kanec
UIAA Class 5. Entry below the double crack of the SE wall. By stemming to a small… Rock Climbing
5
Kanec
UIAA Class 5. From the Amphitheater, corner crack in the valley wall into a recess and… Rock Climbing
7
Kanec
UIAA Class 7. Route No. 6a to the small pillar and left wall (3 bolts) to the 3rd bolt of… Rock Climbing
6+
Kanec
UIAA cl. 6+ Right of the start of route no. 6 by chimney to the small pillar and by crack… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kanec
variant via 1 ring Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-
Kanec
UIAA cl. 7- Right of Branka (from Amfiteátr) by crack into the niche and by stemming to… Rock Climbing
6+
Kanec
UIAA cl. 6+ Start in the chimney between Kance and Štěnět. Through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6+
Kanec
UIAA cl. 6+ Route no. 3 to the ring. Step across to the right and by crack over two… Rock Climbing
6
Žíznivá
UIAA cl. 6 From the SE by chimney to the block. Overhang, crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Žíznivá
UIAA cl. 5+ Route no. 2 to Kance into the niche, by stemming and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Žíznivá
UIAA cl. 6- Route no. 1 to Kance up to the small platform. Right via a crack to the small… Rock Climbing
5
Žíznivá
UIAA cl. 5 From Branka to Amfiteátr by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 4 Left part of the NW wall. Rock Climbing
4
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 4 Description missing Rock Climbing
4
Žíznivá
UIAA cl. 4 From the SW by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 4 Right of the NE edge by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 4 Description missing Rock Climbing
6
Nicota
Through the chimney below the wall and along the rounded edge of the NW pillar (ring) to… Rock Climbing

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