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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 2 Description missing Rock Climbing
4
Mrňous
UIAA cl. 4 Description missing Rock Climbing
6-
Nicota
From the south (from the gorge behind Hampejz) by chimney, higher up along the rounded… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hampejz
UIAA cl. 7 From the W from the fore-rock by building and gully to the platform to the… Rock Climbing
6
Nicota
Left of the route 'Something ends, something begins' by stemming and wall (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing
5
Hampejz
UIAA cl. 5 Route no. 7 to Paprika up to the gully. Traverse in the chimney to the NE, by… Rock Climbing
3
Feferonka
UIAA cl. 3 Through the chimney between the tower and Paprika to the pre-summit. Route no.… Rock Climbing
3
Feferonka
UIAA cl. 3 From the NW on steps below a wide crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Feferonka
UIAA cl. 5 SE crack (ring) and chimney to the pre-summit. Wall to the top. Rock Climbing
8+
Paprika
UIAA cl. 8+ TOPO pages 53 and 54. Rock Climbing
5
Paprika
UIAA cl. 5 From the NE chimney to the platform and another chimney to the balcony. Wall… Rock Climbing
6+
Paprika
UIAA 6+TOPO page 54. Rock Climbing
7
Paprika
UIAA 7TOPO pages 53 and 54. Rock Climbing
6
Paprika
UIAA 6 Approach in the chimney on the W side. From the wedged boulder, up the chimney on… Rock Climbing
7-
Paprika
UIAA 7- From the SE via a chimney or from the NE through a passage in the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rapmušák
Left part of the valley face (4 rings) and from the right, up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Paprika
UIAA 8TOPO page 53. Rock Climbing
6+
Paprika
UIAA 6+TOPO page 54. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rapmušák
Up the crack in the right part of the SE face over an overhang to the ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Rapmušák
From the NW corridor via a chimney and traverse/swing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Rozvodová
From the inter-tower via a corner NW crack, a 4m step right into a crack and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Rapmušák
From the southern pre-summit via a crack left of the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Rozvodová
From the summit of Rampusak via building moves and the face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokolí jehla
UIAA 6 From the corridor below the S edge by stemming, higher up a crack between the… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolí jehla
UIAA 5+ From the corridor between the tower and the adjacent rock on the SE via a corner… Rock Climbing
4
Erika
UIAA 4 From the East via a crack to a small platform and then up the crack. Rock Climbing
6
Sokolí jehla
UIAA 6 From the NW via a chimney between the edges of the tower and the block to the… Rock Climbing
4
Sokolí jehla
UIAA 4 Up the face at the end of the amphitheater to a prominent tree. Rock Climbing
7
Trosky
UIAA 7 Valley face (ring) and left to the South edge to the 2nd ring. Up the crack. Rock Climbing
4
Zamlžená
UIAA 4 From the NW pre-summit, right along the face and directly up the face over an… Rock Climbing

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