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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Odrodilec
By corner of the Planned Parenthood route further over the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Odrodilec
From SE by corner and left by wall to the 1st ring, by edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Masařka
In the left part of the valley wall by crack and corner to the platform and NC to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Miratias
Right in the SW wall by chimney to the pillar, by step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korunovanej vůl
By wall from the plateau side obliquely left into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Korunovanej vůl
From E by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Masařka
Shortly by crack from the plateau side and by slanting slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Kolonos
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kolonos
By chimney from the plateau side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+
Kirké
In the valley wall (about 5m to the right of the start of the route "Tramínek und… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hubáček
From NW via a system of cracks (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Iásón
From the valley (from the north) by crack to the 1st ring and by edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Hubáček
Through the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hubáček
Left of the path through the Koutem chimney to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hubáček
From the north by corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Hubáček
From the south by chimney and wall on the left, higher up on the right of the edge (ring)… Rock Climbing
7
Fryšpant
2 rings Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dobrovolný žalář
On the left plateau (E) edge initially via an overhanging crack to the hourglass, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Desdemóna
From the valley side (W. corner) via a small corner and a fissure (1st ring) into a hole,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Desdemóna
Rock Climbing
3
Dětská věž
From the NE via a crack to the fore-rock and via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dívčí
To the right in the SW face via a crack to the ring, aid climbing from a sling/seat and… Rock Climbing
4+
Dívčí
In the middle of the valley (NE) face via a chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dívčí
From the NW via a short sloping chimney to a block, downclimb/drop into another chimney… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dívčí
In the valley (NE) face via a small chimney, traverse right in a ledge and via the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Klouzek
Via the wall along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Klouzek
From the plateau side traverse right via the wall behind the edge. Via the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
3
Bobr
Via the NE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bobr
Via the south ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lízátko
From the plateau side to the balcony and via the north ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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