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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Skleněná koule
In the gorge, up the chimney to a overgrown ledge. By extensive building/aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krab
From the south from the saddle and left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pavoučí
Left in the SW wall from the inner space via a crack (1st ring) and a fissure to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
Through the passage between Raka and Homer Simpson to the valley side. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
From S, traverse through the chimney into the gap between towers and right up the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Homer Simpson
From the start of the old route, up the chimney to the ledge and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
Up the corner crack to the balcony to the ring of the "IQ Pumpkin" route and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rak
From the start of the Inner Route, through a passage in the chimney to the right into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Homer Simpson
From NW via a crack-gully (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rak
Via the Cossack's Route to the crack overhang and left up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rak
SE crack into the cave. Up the chimney, which narrows into a crack, to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
4
Rak
The ascent starts in the corner in the right part of the plateau (SE) wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žalud
From the boulder on the plateau side via a broken crack in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7-/7
Žalud
NW crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall left to the 2nd and 3rd rings. Right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Protopapatakis
In the right part of the NW wall of Raka (in the walk-through chimney) via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Žalud
From SE from the fore-summit traverse right along the ledge, up the chimney and wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Protopapatakis
NE sharp edge (2 rings) left and by the old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Protopapatakis
Right on the plateau side up the wall to a ledge, right (1st ring) into the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pakomár
From SE via a crack to the ledge and a crack (tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Pakomár
Briefly up the chimney and right to the small pinnacle. Up it to the ring and a slanting… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klepeto
From NE via a crack over a ring to the balcony to the 2nd ring. Long traverse into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Klepeto
Left of the west corner of the tower via a crack to the end and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kvíčala
NE wall to the right into the crack and up it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Kvíčala
From the valley side, through the crack to the saddle, through the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hysterka
Through a narrow chimney to the summit. (Possibly climbed before, not recorded in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Michael Jackson
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, along the right plateau edge into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kvíčala
Through the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Opomenutá
In the NE wall, through the corner crack to the balcony. Left up the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Opomenutá
In the right part of the SW wall, through the chimney to the platform, traversing left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Opomenutá
From the north, through the wide corner to the ledge of the Old Route. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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