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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Pegas
To the left of the start of the Old Route wall and left crack, higher through the fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pegas
From the SE from the fore-rock wall and right crack into the inner space. Corner crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pegas
From the south corner of the tower, traverse diagonally left through a notch and a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pegas
In the SW wall, follow a prominent right crack (ring) to its end at the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Titan
Dusty path without building to the ledge, from there slightly left wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Titan
From the upper side (from SE) wall to the ledge, right by building, small chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Titan
Route "Boží vánek" to the ledge, traverse left behind the edge and wall over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Titan
From the NW (from the gorge) chimney and crack into the window. Chimney to the pillar,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Titan
From the NE from the upper side (by building) wall to the ledge, traverse right along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Škorpion
From the NE through a system of shallow cracks to the ring. Wall into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Škorpion
Overhang into the pyrite valley wall (1st ring), further wall to the 2nd ring, through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Škorpion
Through the upper chimney into the widening, building right into the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Fundament
From the gorge from Titan, a corner crack and higher a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Krunýř
Middle of the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Fundament
In the middle of the NW wall through a crack to its end, traverse the wall right into a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Krunýř
Left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Turek
From the SE chimney to the small balcony and crack to the ring. Wall from the left,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Krunýř
Middle of the valley wall obliquely to the right to the edge and along it (secured by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Krunýř
From the NW through the overgrown gully to the gap between towers and right along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Turek
From Šavle by jumping to the plateau and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Turek
From the SE chimney to the ledge, traverse left along it and wall along the inclined… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Šavlička
By the wavy path to Šavle to the ring, from the opposition through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Šavlička
From Šavle descend to the ledge above the ring, from there jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Kyklop
At the left valley edge through cracks to the 1st ring, wall right over the overhang (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Šavle
From the NE chimney to the saddle between Šavle and Kyklop. Up the steps, wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Šavlička
From the SW crack to the plateau. Through the chimney into opposition, by stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kyklop
From the SE chimney to the saddle, with building and wall to the balcony to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pavoučí
Via "Friendship" to the ring, from there right and up the gully to the 2nd ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pavoučí
On the SW side of the tower (from the fore-summit) up the wall along the notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kyklop
From the left edge of the gallery traverse left into the crack and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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