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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Arnika
Via the route 'Spektrum' to the 1st ring, up the wall (2nd ring) and a small overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Arnika
On the plateau side, by stepping over/traversing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pravá arnika
Along the plateau (eastern) edge to the pre-summit and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Arnika
On the valley (SW) wall, diagonally right via a small overhang/arete and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Květák
From the upper side, via an overhang and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Květák
SW crack (from the chicory) to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Květák
From the SW ledge to the right to the balcony on the west edge. To the left up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-
Květák
4m to the right of the "Valley Variant of Vosáhlovka", via a crack and fissure (2 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lájoš
From the upper side, via the chimney and the wall left to the balcony. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kladrubská
Via the Náhorní (NE) chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lájoš
In the right part of the valley wall, via a crack to the balcony. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kladrubská
On the SW side, to the right of the prominent corner, via a crack and left via a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Čučka
To the left of the start of the Dostihy na Kladrubskou route, via the overhanging corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čučka
To the right of the Náhorní crack route, up the wall and shallow chimney right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čučka
In the middle of the SW wall, via a crack to the ring. Traverse the wall right and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čučka
To the left below the start of the Náhorní crack route, traverse left on the ledge into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Čučka
Via the crack of the Dostihy na Kladrubskou route and right along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čučka
In the left part of the SE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Čučka
Up the NW wall over 6 rings to the fore-summit and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Sedlová
To the right of the start of the Old Route, via the chimney (between Sedlová and Pegasus)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sedlová
With an East crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedlová
From the SW (right of the start of the Old Route on Pegasus), via the corner crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pegas
From the NW, via the chimney into the window and by stemming left to the 1st ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pegas
From the gully between Titan and Sedlová, via the chimney to the pillar of Sedlová.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Drobeček
Via the Old Route on Pegasus into the inner space and via the chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pegas
Via the Two-Day Route to the 1st ring and a really long crack to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Pegas
In the left part of the SW wall, via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pegas
In the middle of the SW wall, through a fissure and chimney to the 1st ring. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pegas
Via the White Mouse Route below the overhang (approx. 12m above the ring), step left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Pegas
In the SW wall, via the middle crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Descend the crack into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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