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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Myšák
In the center of the SE wall along the crack to the ledge (ring) and via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Trajánův sloup
3m left of the start of the "Roman Legion" route via cracks directly to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Myšák
From the N via the chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Myšák
Right of the southern corner via the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Trajánův sloup
Left of the southern edge via the crack and fissure to the 1st ring. Via the wall left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Trajánův sloup
Between Trajan's Column and Hamr via the chimney to the ledge. Via the crack to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Trajánův sloup
From the upper side via the chimney and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hamr
From the upper (SE) side via the chimney to the block. Aid climbing, wall and slanting… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hamr
NE crack to the block, left wall (1st ring) under the overhang and left to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hamr
In the left part of the NW wall by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Hamr
Right upper crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Hamr
Right of the eastern corner via the wall and crack to the 1st ring. Right via the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hamr
Left of the Old Route by crack to the small pillar. Right by crack and fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hamr
Below the center of the NW wall by the western edge of the pillar to its summit. By fall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hamr
From NW by chimney to the pillar and left by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hamr
Right of the "Pexeso" route by fissure (1st ring), wall (2nd ring) and gully (3rd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hrbáč
From the valley (NW) side by crack to the 1st ring. Traverse by wall left, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Hrbáč
4m right of the route "Treachery and Revenge" by fissure and edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Faust
From the adjacent block (from NW) by jump to the small platform between the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faust
By SE chimney, crack and small pillar to the ring. Aid climbing from a harness and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Faust
From SW in the corner by small pillar and crack over the overhang to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faust
From NE by a winding crack to the block. Traverse by wall right, by crack (2 rings) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faust
From the block on the NW side of the tower by small pillar in the corner to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rozhoďnožka
From SE from the crack by strenuous aid climbing and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Mládě
From the valley side by an overhanging crack to the ring, by a small pillar to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mládě
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Herodes
In the left part of the valley wall by crack five meters and traverse by wall right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mládě
From the valley side by a system of cracks and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Herodes
The ascent starts from the foothills near the southern edge of the tower. By a system of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herodes
From the block at the eastern edge by crack and chimney into the widening. By wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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