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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hladová
In the right part of the SW wall up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Héraklés
Left NE crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Héraklés
Right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Héraklés
In the valley (NW) wall up the chimney and crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Héraklés
Uphill edge to the pre-summit, step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mařena
Uphill edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mařena
From the west aid climbing and wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čekanka
Follow route "První" briefly upwards and wall to the right to the ring. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Čekanka
From the valley side up the crack and gully to the 1st ring. System of cracks (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Čekanka
From the uphill side traverse the wall to the right and up the crack to the ring, wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Čekanka
From the ring always straight up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Čekanka
From the uphill side traverse the wall to the left and up the crack to the ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-
Pyramida
Left of c. Kořínková edge via corner to 1st ring, wall to 2nd ring, aid climbing and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pyramida
Valley route into the chimney. Wall to the right and along the edge (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pyramida
In the left part of the valley wall up the crack and chimney to the saddle. Corner route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pyramida
From the southeast from the fore-rock up the wall to the ring. Aid climbing from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Pyramida
Start left of the "Koutová" (Corner) route via a crack to the 1st ring, then up the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pyramida
From the northeast crack to a small platform, traverse the wall to the right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Pyramida
Via the chimney on the right side of the valley wall and slab (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pyramida
From the saddle along the little pillar (ring) and up the wall to the ledge. Left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ramses
Up the NE corner crack to the end, then right along the wall to the 2nd ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ramses
Via the Corner route to the Pyramid for about eight meters, then traverse right along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramses
Up the SW wall (ring) to the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ramses
From the NW, up the wall along the left edge to the holes, then traverse right in them to…
5
Pařavec
At the northern edge, up a diagonal crack and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pařavec
In the middle of the NW wall, up a crack and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pařavec
Up the NW wall and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ramses
Via the Corner route to the Pyramid into the saddle. By aid climbing and up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Pařavec
Up the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Eva
On the valley side from the right, up a crack to a small balcony, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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