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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Themis
In the chimney of the Gingerbread Crumbs route, ascend the left corner crack over two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Themis
In the corner on the valley side, via the chimney to the ledge and traverse left in it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Themis
Via the chimney of the Gingerbread Crumbs route directly further to the ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kleopatra
Left of the south corner of the tower, via a crack to the balcony. By building to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kleopatra
Left of the Fisso corda route, up the wall along the small chimneys and via a crack (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Půlnoční
Between Půlnoční (Midnight) and Themis, via the chimney into its widening and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Půlnoční
From the NE, via the chimney approx. 20m traverse right to the 1st ring, up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kleopatra
From the SW, via a system of cracks diagonally left into the gully between the towers. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kleopatra
From the NE, via a crack (ring) and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
César
From the NW, via cracks to the pillar. Right along the crack and fissures (3 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
César
Right of Berthold's route, via a crack to the 1st ring. By building from a seat and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
César
Via the route Vera's Fate to Cleopatra into the gully between the towers. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
César
Via the left NE crack over the overhang to the gully between the towers and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
César
From the NE, via a narrow chimney to the ring, a crack and a chimney to the gully between… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Maska
NE face (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Maska
From the summit of Škraboška, jump to the plateau and follow Piki's path to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Maska
Start right of Strašidelná. Slightly right to the 1st ring and further over 3 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Maska
Through the right part of the NW face over the overhang, traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Maska
Along the Strašidelná (Spooky) route to the 1st ring, left up the wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Maska
Via the Happy Way crack to the footbridge, then traverse left (ring - supplied for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Maska
From the NE, via the chimney between Maska and Škraboška into its widening and right onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Maska
In the left part of the NE face, via a crack to the pre-summit, and left via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Škraboška
Along the Carnival route past the traverse in cracks. Traverse in the ledge right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Škraboška
From the NW chimney, higher up the crack to the end and left along the crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Škraboška
In the ledge above the ring traverse right to the western edge to the added ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Médea
In the left part of the NW wall, via a crack and left via wall to the northern edge. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Médea
Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2
Pastička
From SW, via chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Médea
In the middle of the NW wall, via chimney, right via crack and left via arête to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Médea
From SE, via chimney under the overhang and crack left to the balcony (ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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