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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Lososí trůn
From the uphill side (between Salmon Throne and Snoqualmie) by stemming to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Snoqualme
On the valley (NW) side, up the chimney to the intermediate tower. Along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4+
Želva
From the uphill side, left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Loskuták
To the left of the Náhorní route, up the wall and a crack to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Želva
From the gorge on the uphill side, by aid climbing and left along the wall to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
To the left of the Náhorní wall via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
In the left part of the NW wall via a system of cracks (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Loskuták
Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
To the right of the eastern corner up the wall diagonally right to the ring. By aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
From the NW via the right crack, which turns right higher up, to the chimney and via it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hejkal
From the north via chimney to the pillar, by aid climbing and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hejkal
From chimney c. Along the edge by crack to the ledge and up the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Loskuták
In the right part of the north face via a short rib and the pyrite wall near the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Skokan
From the summit of Inquisitor by traverse to the platform. Via the descent route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skokan
From the south via a small chimney to the platform and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Skokan
From Zeus via crack to the ledge, by opposition and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Inkvizitor
Via Koksova, route to Rosnička to its pillar, by overhang and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žabička
Between Žabička and Rosnička via chimney below the summit part of the tower. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Inkvizitor
From the NE via an interrupted crack to the saddle, to the right up the wall (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žabička
Left crack to the end, right traverse by wall into the Sklerotický den route and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Inkvizitor
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Zeus
From the last ring to the left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žabička
NE double crack to the end and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Zeus
Via the Hromová route below the 2nd ring, up the wall to the right into the crack, which … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zeus
From the NW from the fore-rock by aid climbing onto a small platform, by aid climbing to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zeus
To the left of the south edge via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rosnička
Via the Wikingard route to the saddle and by a small crack to the pillar. Overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rosnička
Along the eastern edge of the NE pillar (ring) to its summit. Via the Pranostika route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zeus
From the NE up the wall to the left to the 1st ring and to the left via a small chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rosnička
From the SE via a system of cracks to the saddle, to the right via a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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