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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Orfeus
From the chimney of the Náhorní (Plateau) route, to the right via a crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hermes
In the right part of the NW wall, via the chimney to the ledge, and traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hermes
Up the center of the NW wall, higher up via a crack to a ledge, where it crosses the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Hermes
From the summit of Orpheus, traverse to the balcony and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Orfeus
From the NW, traverse to the crawl-through and through it into the SE wall. To the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ónan
On the left in the plateau via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ónan
Up the wall from Hermes (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Xantipa
Rock Climbing
6
Kalypso
In the left part of the plateau wall via a crack to the balcony and a sloping slab to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kalypso
In the left part of the upland face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kalypso
From the rock gate via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Xantipa
From the plateau side via a crack to the ledge and the right edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kalypso
Rock Climbing
5
Kalypso
Rock Climbing
2
Kalypso
Via the chimney from the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bendžo
Via the crack in the middle of the south face into the window. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bendžo
In the left part of the N face via the chimney into the window and via the small 'sokolík… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bendžo
Via the East crack (from Kalypso) into the window (hourglass) and via the Session route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bendžo
NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bendžo
Via the right north crack into the window and along the small 'sokolík' (small pinnacle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pygmalion
From the 2nd ring, right up the wall (3rd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pygmalion
Left of the upland (east) corner of the tower via aiding/stacking, wall and small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pygmalion
Right of the Upland Route via opposition (1st ring), 'sokolík' (small pinnacle/rib) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pygmalion
From the upland side (aiding/stacking) up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
The ascent starts below the south corner. Up the wall over the overhang to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pygmalion
In the middle of the NE face from the block via the wall (1st ring) into the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
In the right part of the NE face via the crack (ring) to the balcony and via the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pygmalion
From the SW via the crack and chimney to its inclined part. Up the wall right and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
Left of the south corner via the wall and directly up the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brtník
SW edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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