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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Brtník
Via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Polednice
From PePa, via the edge and a step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jezerní Béďa
From Kodiak, step across to the pillar, step left and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jezerní Béďa
Start on the South. From the fore-rock, traverse left into the chimney, up it to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Via the chimney of the Wider Dimension route, crack into the hollow and then via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
To the right in the NE wall, up the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Medvědí stěna
Left of the Golf Club route, via a short chimney to the ledge and then right along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Via the chimney of the Middle Route to the ledge, then left, along the 'sokolík' (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
In the middle of the NE face via the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medvědí stěna
From the ring of the Zaplétačka route, left along the crack (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medvědí stěna
From the 2nd ring, step right into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the end, right in the ledge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Between the routes "Right" and "Entanglement", up the crack to the end (ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kalich
From the uphill side, by stemming to the gully, up it to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kalich
Stemming against the pillar of the Bear Wall (at the east edge of the tower) and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
In the right part of the valley (north) wall, up the corner and crack over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
Via the crack in the left valley edge to a small balcony and right (1st R) up the pyrite… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ludvík Vaculík
To the right of the Náhorní route, up the crack and chimney to the pillar. Step across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ludvík Vaculík
From the uphill side, up the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
Via the crack of the "Heart Eight" route, higher up via the crack to the ring of the "Two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
From the uphill side, up the wall to the right and along the crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bubáček
To the left of C. Up the corner chimney to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bubáček
From N, up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ludvík Vaculík
Rock Climbing
4
Ludvík Vaculík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bubáček
From NW, a system of cracks (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bubáček
From S, up the chimney and wall to the left, higher up to the right of the edge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Bubáček
Up the uphill chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Snoqualme
On the valley (NW) side, up the chimney to the intermediate tower. Along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Snoqualme
Rock Climbing

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