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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Zarostlá
In the left part of the NW wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trabant
In the NE wall via a hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zarostlá
From the block on the plateau (NE) side via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Héfaistos
The ascent starts below the valley (NE) wall. Via a crack (1st ring) to the balcony. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Trabant
Step over from the massif and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pikopetos
To the left in the plateau wall via a chimney, a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pikopetos
From NE via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Héfaistos
From NW (from the plateau side) via the chimney to the block, by building up to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hydra
From the plateau side along the wall to the ledge, traverse right and a small crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Triton
The ascent starts below the eastern corner. By building up and via a crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Triton
Via the right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Triton
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Triton
Via the left SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Charónovo bidlo
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack and a seam to the 1st ring. Via the seam, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarytý nepřítel
From SW via an overgrown gully and a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Charónovo bidlo
Via the SW chimney between the peaks, by stemming and stepping over to the balcony. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zarytý nepřítel
Via the NE chimney to the balcony and right along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zarytý nepřítel
Along the southern edge (ring), to the right in the ledge to the hourglass, and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bárka
From the SW, from the block, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6+/7-
Charón
Near the eastern edge, via a crack to the end and left up the wall along a small crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Charón
Via the route “River STYX” to the 4th ring and then up the wall directly (5th ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Charón
Along the northern edge to the ring (aid climbing from a sling/seat) and then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Charón
From the ring, traverse the wall right to the middle of the face and then up that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Charón
To the left on the valley (SW) face to the 4th ring, then right to the 5th ring, and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Charón
Up the wall along the southern edge to the 1st ring. To the right, up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nymfa
From the NE, from the saddle by aid climbing and along the edge to the pillar. Then up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Echó
Via the central NE crack to the pillar. On the SW side, up the wall to the right and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Echó
From the NE, via a crack to the saddle between Echo and Nymfa. Up the wall to the NW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hádův trůn
On the plateau side by stemming, higher up traverse right into the crack. Along this and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hádův trůn
From the NE, via a chimney to the pre-summit and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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