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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
První
(UIAA 4)Gully to the left of C. Plateau Chimney. Rock Climbing
?
První
From the NE pre-rock, jump to the pine tree and through the gully to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
První
From the NE, by stemming onto the pre-rock and up the wall over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Goethe
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
První
(UIAA 3)Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Hastrman
In the left part of the valley wall, via a system of cracks (ring) into a niche and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Hastrman
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Afrodité
From the NE, by stemming or up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zbojník
In the left part of the NE wall (third pillar from the left) up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Zbojník
Up the SE chimney to the end, then right traverse the wall (1st ring) to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zbojník
Follow the descent route to the balcony. From its left side, climb the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zbojník
Follow the descent route to the balcony. From the start of the Rainovinky route, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbojník
Follow the descent route to the balcony and take the right part of the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbojník
Follow the descent route to the balcony and take the left part of the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zbojník
From Aphrodite via a crack to a small platform and up the wall (3 rings) to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zbojník
From the NE, via cracks and the wall diagonally right to the balcony. Right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Zbojník
Follow the South route to the ring. Traverse left along the ledge to the second gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbojník
In the left part of the area above Aphrodite, via a crack into a niche, then through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zbojník
Right in the NE wall via a crack to a small pillar and via a crack (ring) to the pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zbojník
From the ring, traverse left along the ledge and take the first gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zbojník
To the left of the Descent edge along the arête to the pillar and further to the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Zbojník
From the south (from the square) through the chimney to the pillar. By jumping to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hajduk
Via the anniversary route to the balcony, left along the wall into the 'Jiřinková… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Hajduk
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack to the 1st ring. Along the wall traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hajduk
In the left part of the valley wall, traverse left along the wall to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zbojník
From S from the tourist path via a chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hajduk
Via the plateau crack to the balcony, by building up and along the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vlčák
Via the left part of the NW wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vlčák
Via the right part of the SW wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vlčák
To the right of the western edge along the wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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