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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 5+)Up the crack in the left part of the NW face and the wall below the overhang. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 5)Right part of the NW face to the balcony, then directly up the SW face and then… Rock Climbing
3
Čertova stěna
In the right part of the SW face, via a crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 3)Between two pillars on the upper side, via a chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 4)Left part of the SE face and left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 2)Over the leaning pillar in the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Čertova stěna
(UIAA 2)Suddenly up the chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Trojče
Rock Climbing
5+
Trojče
Rock Climbing
3
Trojče
To the left of the "Strudel" route, in sloping terrain, via a prominent crack into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Dvojče
Rock Climbing
3
Dvojče
From the NW corner, via the crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojče
(UIAA 5+)Up the right part of the NE face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojče
(UIAA 5)Up the crack in the right part of the NW face to its end. Down the wall to the N… Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojče
From the gorge, take the right part of the SW face up to above the indentation in the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dvojče
(UIAA 7)Up the center of the SW face over large holes to the ring of route no. 2 and… Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojče
(UIAA 2)From the gorge, traverse the SW face to the terrace and then the SE chimney to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
První
(UIAA 8)From the gorge along the W edge to the ring. Up the wall to the ring of route no.… Rock Climbing
6-
První
(UIAA 6)From the chimney of route no. 1, traverse right (ring) to the hole and up the… Rock Climbing Danger
6
První
To the right of Náhorní Chimney, up the wall (2R) traverse over Jáma and pendulum up. Rock Climbing
9+
První
The start is below the center of the SW face from a large block. Up the wall (ring and 2… Rock Climbing
6
První
(UIAA 7)In the left part of the SW face, by crack into a recess and down the wall to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
První
(UIAA 8)From SW, from the boulder, up the wall (1st ring) to the crack (2nd ring) and up… Rock Climbing Danger
6
První
(UIAA 7)Via route no. 7 into a recess and right along the wall following the gully into… Rock Climbing
7/7+
První
(UIAA 7+)Through the center of the SE wall to the 1st ring and directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6-
První
(UIAA 7-)From the E edge, diagonally left up the wall, directly up the wall and through… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
První
(UIAA 8-)Along the S edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
První
(UIAA 6+)Start below the left edge of the SE wall. Up the wall and through the gully to… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
První
(UIAA 5)Via the Plateau Chimney route to the ledge and traverse left along it to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4-
První
(UIAA 4)Gully to the left of C. Plateau Chimney. Rock Climbing

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