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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-
Herodes
Start by the crack of the "Herkulova" route and further by crack and chimney into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Herodes
By the right valley edge and small pillars directly to the 1st ring of the "Herkulova"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Herodes
Right of "Bad" by crack and wall (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Herodes
Start by the crack of the "Herkulova"/"Nostalgie" routes about 8m up and by wall right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Javorový list
Through the left part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the ring of the Canadian route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Javorový list
In the right part of the valley (SW) wall by chimney to the pillar. From the crack, step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Herodes
Left of "Bad" by wall (3 rings) to the balcony and by "Bad" (= by aid climbing) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Studničkova věž
The approach is below the right part of the NE wall. Up the crack to a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Flóra
From the NW foresummit/fore-rock, up the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Javorový list
From the plateau (NE) side, through the chimney between Javorový list (Maple Leaf, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Flóra
Up the NE wall and a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Studničkova věž
To the left of the Memorial Route, through a notch and a crack into the saddle between… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Studničkova věž
In the left part of the SW wall, along the crack into a hollow, onto a flake (loose block… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Studničkova věž
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall, up the crack (2 rings) and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Studničkova věž
On the SW wall, through the wide chimney to the 1st and 2nd rings. To the left up the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Studničkova věž
Rock Climbing
3
Studničkova věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Studničkova věž
Rock Climbing
3
Studničkova věž
Along the plateau (eastern) edge to a block, by stepping over and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Studničkova věž
On the SW wall, along the right edge of the wide chimney, through a small overhang/arete… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Studničkova věž
In the left part of the SW wall, along the crack and up the crack (1st ring) to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Márinka
Via the route 'Smích starého Kruppa' (Laughter of Old Krupp) to Studničková Tower into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Diana
Up the 'kyz' (concretion) E wall of the pillar (4 rings) to the pillar. From there, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vojtěch
Through the plateau chimney to the 1st ring and up the wall to the pillar: From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Vojtěch
To the right of the route 'Údolní komín' (Valley Chimney) up the 'kyz' (concretion) wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vojtěch
Approach below the NE wall via a slabby small wall under an overhanging crack, up it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Diana
In the gorge between Diana and Studničková Tower, to the left through the chimney in… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pravá arnika
Through the plateau chimney between Prha chlumní (a named feature) and the pillar to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pepa policajt
To the left of the route 'Inteligence vrozená' (Innate Intelligence), through the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pepa policajt
Along the 'kyz' (concretions) slightly from the left to the ring, then directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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