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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Bludiště
Along the W edge (BH - bolt/fixed anchor) directly to the 2nd ring of the 'Apokalypsa' … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Bludiště
From the tourist path on the SW side of the tower, chimney to the ledge, traverse (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Bludiště
Right of the NE corner with a small overhang and wall along the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bludiště
From the SW side, in the Bludiště alley, wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Bludiště
From the tourist path to the right of the W edge, up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8-/8
Bludiště
Right of the start of the 'Traverz' (Traverse) route, directly up the wall to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Pilíře u Hladké
Right part of the SW wall to the 'hodiny' (hourglass formation), further to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Pilíře u Hladké
Right part of the NE wall of the northern pillar (right of the route "Lancelot") up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Hladká
Right of the W edge, up the wall to the 'hodiny' (hourglass formation), traverse right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hladká
Through the chimney between the tower and Zbrojnoš, higher up the wall to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Hladká
Up the wall and crack along the N edge, higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hladká
In the NW wall, up the crack to the ring, traverse left to the crack of the 'Pod slaněním… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Hladká
Unknown climbers: From NE, through the chimney between the tower and the 'okrajovka' … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hladká
Like 'Žlutá cesta' (Yellow Route) to the 'hodiny' (hourglass formation) and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Vyhlídka
Up the wall along the E edge, over the ring to a small platform and left along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zbrojnoš
Through the chimney between the tower and Hladká, higher up the wall to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Zbrojnoš
Left of the E edge, up the corner to the balcony. Via the 'Brnivka' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Zbrojnoš
From the NE, up the falcon-like crack and left along the wall to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Zbrojnoš
From SW, up the wall diagonally left to the edge to the 1st ring. Left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Trosky
Via the route 'Zábavná cesta' (Fun Route) to the saddle. From the saddle, up the finger… Rock Climbing
5
Trosky
From the alley between Klíč and the tower base, through the chimney and crack into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Trosky
Across the block below the NE wall to the start. Through the crack to the saddle between… Rock Climbing
6-
Zbrojnoš
From the E edge, traverse left along the wall behind the edge and along it to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Trosky
From the summit of Zbrojnoš by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Trosky
From the SE, up the wall along the crack to its end. Traverse left along the ramp into… Rock Climbing
5
Trosky
From the boulders on the SW side of the tower, up the wall to a small platform on the S… Rock Climbing
3
Trosky
Via the chimney between the tower and Zbrojnoš to the NW ledge and via the Zábavné cesty… Rock Climbing
5
Klíč
Left of the Klíčová hrana route, up the wall to the ring and then right or left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Výří brána
From the upper fore-summit along the ledge right into the SW wall. Up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kulisa u Výří brány
NE wall over the ring into a crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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