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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Flora
Through the western corner to the pillar and a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kout
The approach is the same as the route "Necky". After 6 meters, turn left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Kout
The approach is to the left of the route "Necky". Along the West wall next to a sharp… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Kout
Left crack in the recess to the top. Rock Climbing Spare Route
7-/7
Meteorologická
At the left edge of the NW face, up the chimney-crack behind a detached block of unusual… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Meteorologická
To the left of the "Triangle" chimney via the edge and corner to the 1st ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kůrovec
From the west up the face and edge (bolt) to the shelf. Higher into the north face, which… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Orchestr
In the valley face (left of Xylophone) up the face via 2 rings to the ledge and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Orchestr
Along the edge (left of Saxophone) via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Orchestr
Via the pedestal/pinnacle and face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Orchestr
To the left of the "Telephone" route, up the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Borůvková
Middle of the SW face (3 bolts) and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Planetárium
Up the face between the routes "Meteor Shower" and "Polaris" (3 bolts) to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Strakatá
From the start of the 'Right' route, diagonally left up the face to the rivet and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Bílá stěna
Right of the 'Submarine' route, up the face via a bolt to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing
6-
Bílá stěna
Middle of the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Skrytá stěna
Up the narrow NW face near the W edge (slings in crack) to the ledge (sling). The right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
7/7+
Prašívá stěna
SE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Celda
At the N edge, over a small overhang into a ledge, left beyond the edge and left to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
5
Celda
From the boulder below the E edge, into the SE wall and along the edge via 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Sfinga
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
From the valley side, up the NE wall to the ledge. Then via the Children from Mars route… Rock Climbing
5
Zrádce
Along the valley S edge, up a chimney to the balcony, and right via the Left Valley… Rock Climbing
2+
Zrádce
From the upper side (from N) up a two-meter chimney and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
From the ledge on the NE side of the tower, up a crack over an overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zrádce
From the tourist viewpoint (at Zrádce - Traitor) by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zrádce
From the SE, up the right chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zrádce
About 4m right of the E edge, up the wall and a rounded chimney directly into the crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Zrádce
From the upper NW side between the routes Arab's Betrayal and Entangled Chimney, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zrádce
Along the East edge below the large overhang and from the right, via the crack to the… Rock Climbing

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