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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Cikánka
In the left part of the valley face via 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Cikánka
From the boulder below the S edge into the NE face and along the edge via 2 rings, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Cikánka
Up the right part of the NE wall to a crack and through it over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Cikánka
Via Polická route to the ring. From the ring directly into the crack via the face. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Cikánka
The start is at the right edge of the SW wall below a boulder. Up the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Cikánka
In the valley NE wall, up a small crack to the 1st ring and up the wall past 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Cikán
To the left of the E edge to a ring. From the ring to the right onto the edge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Cikánka
Via the Hronovská route to the small platform, along the E edge to the level of the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7
Cikán
Center of the SW wall. Rock Climbing
4
Cikán
In the left part of the SW wall. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Cikán
Wall along the S edge. Rock Climbing
9-
Cikán
Wall to the left of the S edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Cikán
To the left of the E edge to a ring, from the ring left onto the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Cikán
SW wall near the S edge. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Cikán
Between ZEDNICKA (Mason's) and KE SLAŇAKU (To the Rappel Point). Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Soudeček
Up the overhanging NE wall past 2 rings and to the right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Třešnička
From the NE, via an airy chimney to the plateau. Up the wall and edge (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Jirkovy věže
Via the corner crack in the valley wall to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall left behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6+/7-
Harpagon
Through the middle of the northeast face to the 1st ring. Along the wall slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Píšťaly
In the left part of the west face of the left pillar, a crack to the 1st bolt. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Plotna
In the left part of the west face (to the left of the route “School of Loops”) along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Plotna
From the niche in the middle of the wall, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Plotna
Along the wall along the southern edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Plotna
From the recess in the middle of the wall, via a double crack and higher via a crack to… Rock Climbing Spare Route
8
Plotna
SW wall (on the slope) 2bh to the third ring of the route 'Vysoko nad věcí'. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Signum laudis
Approach 3m through the 'Ledvin Stones' route's corner and left to the 1st stainless… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Signum laudis
Approach via the "Cesta do neznáma" (Road to the Unknown) route (2 rings) and left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Flora
Via 'Sokolík' to the pillar and along the 'Vegetable' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kout
In the right part of the north wall along the edge (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Kout
Follow the route "Křídlo" (Wing) to the 2nd bolt and then right along the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall

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