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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Stříbrňák
From the NE up the wall to the ledge and along the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Poustevník
From the NE through the chimney to the sub-summit (ring), by stepping over and the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Nebojsa
From the SE fore-rock, by the wall left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
10
Galéra
Up the valley-side overhanging corner crack (2 rings) to the balcony. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zamčená
In the NE wall via a small chimney/alcove, cracks (ring) and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Tuvente
From the SE, from the gully, from the block left into the crack, then up to the pillar… Rock Climbing
6-
Schovaná
From the SW, in the gully with Buchar, by a crack to the balcony of the route 'Where is… Rock Climbing
2+
Tuvente
From the NE to a step, traverse to the northern edge and along the edge to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Roztoděj
In the SW face, from the left edge of the slab, via a crack into the widening. To the… Rock Climbing
3
Roztoděj
Via the SE edge, higher up from the left, up the face to the saddle and up the face to… Rock Climbing
6-
Schovaná
In the right part of the NE wall, in the gully with Harmonika, by a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Schovaná
In the middle of the NE wall, left of the route 'Where is it, where is it', by an oblique… Rock Climbing
4+
Roztoděj
In the SW face, via a crack over the ledge into the slab. To the right, via the corner… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kačeny
In the middle of the NE face, via a slanted crack to the ledge (ring) and to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Jednooká
From the NW, via a crack to the ledge and to the right via a crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
2+
Jednooká
From the south, via the corner to the ramp and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Harmonika
In the middle of the SW face, in the gorge with Schovaná, from the block by an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Bludné kameny
In the middle of the NE face, via a crack running right into a chimney, through which to… Rock Climbing
6
Hruška
Via the NW face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the valley side, through the chimney to the blocks and via path no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the blocks of path no. 2, up the wall into the V-crack and then through it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
To the left of path no. 2a, via the corner crack to a small platform and then a slightly… Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
From the SE (from the blocks) along the ledge in the valley wall to the right and through… Rock Climbing
3
Koráb
In the upper face, traverse left to a gully. Through the gully and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Drsoň
Via path no. 4 to the ledge and then right along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
To the right of path no. 2, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
From the SW, by stepping over from the fore-rock and through a gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Drsoň
In the right part of the NE face, via a斜(slanting) crack to the balcony and up the face… Rock Climbing
2
Drsoň
In the left part of the NE face, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Drsoň
Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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