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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Měch
From the SW, by a chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivní masiv
To the left of the route 'To je pěkný', by the left corner crack, in the finish like the… Rock Climbing
6
Měch
From the tourist path (from the NE), by a fissure and to the left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masivní masiv
From the tourist path in the left part of the SE face, by a crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
6-
Masivní masiv
From the fissure, over the ledge directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masivní masiv
From the tourist path, along the southern edge over a ledge (or from the right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masivní masiv
Approach from the tourist path from the SE between the Masivní masiv and Martinská stěna.… Rock Climbing
4+
Masivní masiv
To the left of the route 'To se ti bude líbit', by a crack and a fissure to the ledge. On… Rock Climbing
5
Kulisačka
To the left of the route 'Vyklidnění', by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kovaříci
In the left part of the SE face, by a chimney and a crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulisačka
From the SW, from the tourist stairs, by the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kovaříci
To the left of the eastern edge, by a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kovaříci
In the right part of the NE face, by a corner twin crack to the wedged boulders and to… Rock Climbing
4-
Kovaříci
From the NW, by the conical chimney and a crack to the fallen block and into the chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Kovaříci
From the SW, up the wall and through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenolom
From the SE, by stemming and to the left by a crack over the overhang and directly to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenolom
From the SE, by stemming and to the right by a crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hřbet
In the middle of the NE face, by a broken crack to the ridge. Along the ridge into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hřbet
In the middle of the SW face, by a broken crack to the ridge. Via the route 'Vteřinové… Rock Climbing
4+
Kamenolom
From the SE, by a broken corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Prašivka
Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Klíčník
From the NE, up the wall along the eastern edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Klíčník
Route no. 1 below the overhang. Up the wall over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Klíčník
From the SW, up the wall and crack below the overhang. Traverse right to the ring and… Rock Climbing
2
Klíčník
From the SW, up the chimney to the pillars and then along them to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mlýn
From the SE, up the chimney to the pillar and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mlýn
From the SE, built up into the gully, through it and then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Žlutá
Up the pyrite wall directly to the gully, through it to the end and left to the circle. Rock Climbing
4+
Stříbrňák
Along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Petlice
From the NE (access via chimneys from Měďák to the hanging gully) by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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