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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Martinská stěna
In the middle of the NE wall, a distinct wide crack, later a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Martinská stěna
To the right of the Kloubeňák route, backward, through a chimney between the wall and the… Rock Climbing
6-
Martinská stěna
To the left of the Ticho (Silence) route, along the path, by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mordýř
In the NE wall (from the tourist path) through a conical chimney, higher up a corner… Rock Climbing
5
Mordýř
From SE from the tourist path, by crack over the overhang to the balcony. Corner crack to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mordýř
From SW, from the tourist path, through a passable chimney into the cave. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Strážce duší
In the left part of the NE wall, a curved crack to the fore-summit. To the right along… Rock Climbing
6-
Polednice
In the right part of the NE wall, a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Polednice
From N by a corner crack under the overhang to the bolt. By the right crack over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
From SW by a broken crack and chimney to the summit ridge. By overhang and wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Smolařka
From NE by crack into the saddle. By the 'Ministěna' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
From the valley side by a corner crack to the plateau and by route no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
From SW by crossing under the S edge. Traverse right to the plateau in the NE wall and by… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková
From NW by crack to the pillar, descend by crack to the plateau. By chimney to the summit… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
By crack in the middle of the NE wall to the plateau. By route no. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kulisák
Left in the SW wall (left of the 'Narozky střelců' route) by a crack and a fissure to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Scéna
In the left part of the NE wall, by a corner crack under the overhang. By crack over the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Scéna
Left of the 'Dva schody' route by building (aid climbing), a crack and an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Scéna
In the left part of the SW wall, in the corner, by the right crack to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Kulisák
By crack, higher up by chimney to the summit ridge. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kulisák
From the plateau foothills (from NW) by crossing and left up the wall to the ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Kulisák
In the SW wall, by the left wide crack to the pillar. Descend through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kulisák
From NE, through the corner to the right to the crack and by that (circle) to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Klaun
From SW by chimney to the summit ridge to the circle. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Špalek
From the northwest, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vůz
In the SE face, via the chimney and crack into the recess. Via the crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing
6
Tygra
From the northeast, via the corner crack to the flake, via the crack and wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing
4-
Vůz
In the left part of the SW face, via the chimney and crack to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kanón
Like 'Ammunition from the fridge' into the small cave. Above the overhang to the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Kanón
From the Powder Barrel, crawl through to the small cave in the NE face. Through the… Rock Climbing

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