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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Slůně
From the SW, right through the crack. Rock Climbing
3
Rybář
From the NE, using resistance on a ledge, traverse left and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Rybář
From the south, by overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Slůně
From the SW, through the crack to the end, right along the wall into the crack, then… Rock Climbing
3
Rybář
From the valley by stemming to the ledge and by a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lišák
From SE by a distinct corner (dihedral) (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lišák
From SW by stepping/leaping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ostříži
From SE, right of the chimney, by the left crack to the blocks. Left into the gap between… Rock Climbing
6-
Konečník
In the middle of the NE wall by a distinct wide crack (higher up by a narrow chimney) to… Rock Climbing
4+
Korál
Via the "SV stěna" (NE Wall) route by a chimney and further by a crack and again by a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Korál
In the middle of the NE wall briefly by a chimney and left by the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Lišák
From NE by a crack and a chimney to the balcony. Left by the overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Konečník
Via "Ptačí bonz" (Bird's Snitch) route to the ledge and directly over the overhang by a… Rock Climbing
5
Konečník
From NE, in the left part of the wall, by an overhanging chimney to a ledge. On the ledge… Rock Climbing
4+
Konečník
In the right part of the NE wall by a crack, higher up by the right crack to its end and… Rock Climbing
5+
Konečník
From Sandahál by an overhanging chimney and a crack over an overhang. Along the crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Konečník
By the crack of "Odevzdání" (Surrender) route, higher up by the left crack and by the… Rock Climbing
4-
Chrám
Via "Tajný vchod" (Secret Entrance) route into the chimney, higher up directly by a… Rock Climbing
3
Chrám
From W (from the inner space) by a chimney, higher up left by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chrám
From SW (right of the crawl-through into the inner space) below the block, by an… Rock Climbing
6-
Dionýsos
Via "Průzkum" route to the balcony, by a small gully for about two meters and right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dionýsos
In the right part of the valley wall by a chimney, a crack over an overhang (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Dionýsos
From the gorge by stemming and a small arête/nose to the right onto the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dionýsos
From NW (from the Sphinx) in a corner by a chimney to the balcony and an overgrown gully… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Atlantida
The Stezka (Path) route over the ridge into the inner space. To the right an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Atlantida
From the cave on the right, by a corner crack over two overhangs into a chimney and up it… Rock Climbing
5
Atlantida
In the NE wall, in the right part, by a distinct long corner (dihedral) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Atlantida
To the right in the NE wall, mixed terrain into the inner space. Through a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Atlantida
In the right part of the NE wall, a double crack, higher up a distinct oblique overhang… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Martinská stěna
From the tourist path, from the stairs, by crack over the overhang to the ledge. To the… Rock Climbing

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