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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Perla
Via the route "Valley Chimney" to the ledge. Traverse right to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Perla
In the NW corner, up a left crack over the overhang and through the corner, higher up a… Rock Climbing
6
Perla
Right of the route "Second", up the overhanging wall to a crack, through the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Perla
From the SE, up a right crack over the overhang and through a chimney n. v. (Normal Way… Rock Climbing
2+
Perla
From the south, over blocks to the pre-summit. Via the route "Valley Chimney" to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Skarabeus
From the SW, descend into the chimney. Up a slab crack to the pillar. Via the route … Rock Climbing
5
Krtek
From the N (left of the route "From the Depths"), through a chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Krtek
From the SW gorge, via a corner to the pillar and then via the route "Summer Mixture" to… Rock Climbing
6-
Půp
From the cave on the left, up a crack over the overhang (ring) and gully, higher up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Půp
From the NW, from the balcony, via a crack over an overhang into a cave. To the right, up… Rock Climbing
3
Šakalík
In the middle of the NE wall, up a chimney to the start of a narrow chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Šakalík
In the left part of the NE wall, follow a crack trending left to a ledge, then right into… Rock Climbing
5+
Mamča
From the NW, via a chimney and crack to a balcony. Then up cracks and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Vosí hnízdo
From the NE, via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sfinga
On the plateau side (from the south), from a block, ascend with an aid move and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Větrolamy
In the SW wall, completely to the right, via a crack and chimney to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Větrolamy
From the chimney between the tower and Konečník, up a crack and the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Větrolamy
From the valley side, at the left corner of the Swallow's Chimney, up the wall and a… Rock Climbing
3
Koule
From the NW, from a boulder in the saddle, traverse above the chimney. Then via an… Rock Climbing
5
Koule
To the left of Fekalománie, use an opposition move against a block, then an overhang and… Rock Climbing
4-
Koule
In the right part of the SW wall, a short crack leads to a small platform, then up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Koule
From the NE, follow the crack to its end, then right up the wall into the saddle. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Koule
Below the abseiling wall to the ring and then diagonally right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sandahál
From the pillar directly by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sedmašedesátka
In the NE face over the overhang to the 1st ring. To the left by notch and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sedmašedesátka
To the left of the start of Marko's briefly by crack into the flake and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sedmašedesátka
To the right of the NE Crack route by crack, chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sedmašedesátka
In the narrow NW face by crack (ring) to the end and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Pobřeží
In the right part of the NE face by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pobřeží
By SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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