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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Opat
The ascent starts below the NE face of the adjacent block. Up the crack to the block,… Rock Climbing
2
Hladká
Rock Climbing
5
Opat
In the left part of the SW face via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Opat
In the NW corner via the chimney to the gap between towers and right along the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Opat
Up the NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Opat
The ascent starts in the SW gorge. Up the crack to its end, traverse left over quartzites… Rock Climbing
4
Opat
Up the SW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ondoň
From the plateau side up the face to the ledge, along it left to the pillar and up the… Rock Climbing
6
Sova
(By building/stacking) and along the W edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Sova
From SW via a crack to the balcony. Along the southern edge (3 bolts) and left through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Bumbrlíček
From SW behind the boulder (above the tourist path) in the corner up the wall, small… Rock Climbing
2
Bumbrlíček
From the uphill side by traversing the blocks and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bumbrlíček
Start as 'Marching Exercise'. Right oblique crack and left along the ledge to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4-
Bumbrlíček
Up the wall along the eastern edge into the notch (of the route 'Krteček's Tales') and… Rock Climbing
6-
Bumbrlíček
Up the wall as 'Marching Exercise', then directly along the gully to the ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bumbrlíček
From the south up the wall and gully left to the ring. Up the wall below the summit to… Rock Climbing
6-
Bumbrlíček
From the ring right to the ring of the route 'Krteček's Tales' and along it to the summit… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Bumbrlíček
Via the route 'Mysterious Nook' to the saddle and left through a notch (2 bolts) and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Renér
From NW, over the overhang and via a crack to the end (hourglass/piton). Left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kočka
From NW, with aid into the notch to the ring. Through the notch and wall to the shelf and… Rock Climbing
3
Kočka
From SE, with aid and via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kočka
From SE, step left into the south wall (added ring), along it to the shelf and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mušle
To the right of Synapse, via the corner and over the overhang to the ledge. Valley route… Rock Climbing
6-
Mušle
From SE over blocks into a narrow chimney, through it to the pillar. Via a crack, higher… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
From the S, up a right crack to the break in the wall, then step left and via route No. 4… Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
SW chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
From S, via the left crack in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Velbloud
Up the left S crack n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing
3
Velbloud
Up the right S crack n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing
6
Perla
Via the route "Valley Chimney" to the ledge. Traverse right to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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