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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Želva
From NW by overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Yosemite
To the right of the Falcon route by break-out and wall, finally via the Falcon route to… Rock Climbing
3
Vlna
Opposite the Wooden Saddle briefly by wall to the block below the SW chimney. By chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Yosemite
By the Falcon crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Útes
Immediately to the left of the Amok route by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vlna
From NE by crack into the hole, to the left by arête (ring) and by wall into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Útes
In the left part of the NE face (by the birch tree) by wall and crack to the gallery, by… Rock Climbing
4+
Útes
To the right of the Slanted Route by crack to the balcony. By corner crack later by… Rock Climbing
6-
Škeble
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. To the left by double crack in the corner to… Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. In the corner by zig-zag chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Útes
In the middle of the NE face by the right crack over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Škeble
From the NW, to the right of the route 'Autumn Colors', take the unmistakable corner… Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
From SW, to the right of the Horská variant, from the block by stepping over and a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Škeble
From the NW (from the Shell), through the corner crack to the platform and through the… Rock Climbing
4-
Škeble
To the left in the SW (from the Cat), take the left crack, higher up the chimney of the … Rock Climbing
3
Šestivěží
From the NE, on the middle tower, through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šakal
In the NE wall (from the birch tree), through the middle chimney and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Šampionův masiv
Immediately to the right of the route 'Spíš strach než sezónní únava', through the… Rock Climbing
4-
Šampionův masiv
To the right of the route 'Rasovina na Šampiona', through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šakal
In the NE wall (from the beech tree), to the right through an oblique chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6
Stěna Šampáň
In the left part of the NE wall, directly over a ledge to the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the W (right of the passage), through a double crack into the chimney and up to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stěna Šampáň
In the middle of the NE wall, through a crack over a ledge (1st ring) to the end at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
Along the route 'Enlightenment' to the oblique notch. Directly through the chimney and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the SW, through a system of chimneys to the pillars, traversing to the 'head' and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N (from the Sphinx) into the cave, through which ascend right into the window… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the exit, in the corner, through a crack onto the pillar. Up the wall to the pillars… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the right part of the NE wall, through a crack and a fissure into a bifurcation,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Slůně
From the NE, from the balcony through the crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the bifurcation, take the right crack to the balcony and the corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing

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